Delhi Food Walks

Posted on March 12, 2016 March 17, 2016

Poori Sabzi at Rewari Wale and Jindal Refreshment Corner

Once upon a time, my friend, Ayush, and I met for a get together. Being great foodies, the discussion soon swung to the direction of food. Starting from Fateh ki Kachori in Civil Lines (that Ayush is quite fond of), we discussed food items with enthusiasm. Then slowly we moved to the quintessential breakfast dishes- poori and bhatura, whereupon he mentioned a poori shop in Shakti Nagar, that makes kofte, but only on Sundays. As the clouds gathered in the sky last Sunday, I gave him a call and in a few minutes, we were inside the shop savouring the pooris.

The name of the shop is Rewari Wale ki Poori Sabzi. Located in Shakti Nagar, it is quite accessible- if you are coming from Roop Nagar, take the first right turn towards Gurudwara Nanak Sahib. After taking the right turn, take the first left turn; keep walking straight and the shop Rewari Lal will be on the left side. The complete address is 24/27, Shakti Nagar, Delhi- 07 ( Mobile- 9999935023). A big cauldron of oil where Halwais are frying the pooris can be spotted easily.

The pooris at Rewari Wale, were simply made of maida. The sabzi was mix of chole, aloo and methi ki chutney. A spoon of dahi is added over it to mellow down the spices, giving it a tangy taste. Gopal Sweets in Kamla Nagar also do the same. What sets it apart from other poori sabzi walas of delhi are the aloo besan ke kofte. The small balls similar to the size of badi are made only on Sundays. Being a bit spicy, it served as the perfect combination with the poori.

The shop was started 50 years back, by Sees Ram Saini, and is presently managed by father-son, Dharam Singh Saini and Vikram Saini. The shop is open till 3 pm and a plate of poori sabzi is priced at Rs 40. Very close to poori sabzi shop, the Sainis own another shop, which is famous for its khoya burfi and gajar pak.

Ayush also introduced me to another popular breakfast joint- Jindal Refreshment Corner, on roshanara road. The shop is right opposite Kunji Lal Jagdish Prasad shop, and is famous for pure milk and lassi. The address is 8438, Roshanara Road, Delhi-07 (Mobile. 9953901089). Jindal refreshment corner is owned by Brajesh Jindal, Kunji Lal’s brother. Established 40 years ago, they specialize in bedmi poori and kachoris.

Unfortunately, by the time we reached Kunji Lal, the lassis were over. The small size bedmi poori is priced at Rs 20 a plate. I found the sabzi to be better than what we get in other places. The sabzi is, again, a mix of aloo, chole, methi ki chutney, kachalu, and kofta, which keeps changing everyday- palak, urad dal, mooli. The distinctive strong taste of heeng in the sabzi makes it simply delicious.

In the evening, they make samosas. Remembering the old days, Ayush recited the story of how he used to eat Jindal’s samosas on his way back home from school days, not in plates but straight from his hands. Long live his love for kachoris and samosas!

Posted on March 10, 2016 March 10, 2016

FOOD YATRA AT THE GATEWAY, KASHI

FOOD YATRA AT THE GATEWAY, KASHI.

By Shreya Chowdhury

“ Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together” – Mark Twain

Banaras or Kashi is one of the oldest cities of the world, dipped in culture and spirituality, and is famous for its delicious cuisine comprising of thandais, lassis, kachoris and plenty more. As we commence our journey of discovering the hidden gems of this city, what could have been a better start than with the face of Banarasi gourmet world, Executive Chef Anup Gupta of The Gateway Hotel Ganges, which is one of the favorite luxurious getaway havens for the locals and an escapade for tourists who wish to bask in spirituality and culture.

Food connects us all. Talking to Chef Anup Gupta, who began his Banaras Chapter in 2012, one can easily notice the passion for creating and serving food, bringing smiles on faces every day. We were welcomed with a delicious glass of chilled thandai, the Taj version of the street side thandai found in the older parts of Banaras. It is a beautiful rich concoction of milk and saffron loaded with malai and almonds, a refreshing drink for a hot and sultry day.

Banaras is known for its temples and temple cooking is its soul. A beautiful rendition of this concept is seen in the Saatvik Thali at the Varuna restaurant of The Gateway, where a specially hired homemaker prepares the items herself. The thali laden with minimalistic yet delicious Saatvikbhojan is indeed a treat for the taste buds and light on the stomach. The puris are light and non-greasy, while the yellow daal brings back nostalgia from grandma’s kitchen. The aloomethi, adrakgobhi and the laukikisabziending with rasmalai makes this thali a complete, balanced meal perfectly in sync with the calm and spiritual ambience of Banaras.

For travellers who want to freak out and delve into some amazing Awadhi food, the Muslim GharanaThali is the ultimate! It is a big plate full of flavor and spice and everything nice. The mutton kebabs are soft and juicy with the perfect amount of spices. The beautiful warqiparantha goes perfectly with the rich and creamy dal makhni, the slightly tangy alootamatar and the haramurg. The biryani is a delightful combination of saffron, succulent mutton and caramalised onion. However, the star of the Thali is definitely the NalliGosht. The beautifully cooked mutton, in a spicy and rich curry is like Christmas in the mouth. The sewai is the perfect end to the hearty meal.

The Gateway spreads over acres of land, with manicured lawns, beautiful gardens,lovely kitchen gardens where the Chef grows his produce for the kitchen, serene ponds filled with swans, guava and lemon orchard with stunning peacocks dancing around. Amidst all this scenic beauty, there is a hidden colonial gem known as the Nadesar Palace built by the Maharajah of Varanasi. The building is like a time machine which teleports you to the times of the British Raj. Beautiful Victorian vases and statues, paintings mounted on sturdy wooden frames, archaic furniture. The experience is surreal, straight out of a Jane Austen novel, right here in Varanasi. The cuisine served here is as exclusive as this place. The menu has some very interesting items such as the Dak Bungalow Chicken, Memsahib’s Cheese ball curry, Devilled Chicken. However, the champion of the menu is definitely the Railway Mutton, which has its origins in the traditional KoshaMangsho of Bengal, found in colonial Calcutta in the railway retirement rooms. The combination of caramalised onion, rich gravy and potato and mutton will invariably transport you to the world of AmitavGhosh’s Sea of Poppies, with this beautiful East-meets-West dish. Ah, what a royal treat!

Banaras is a beautiful city, painted in myriad colours and culture and the Taj experience encapsulates this essence which is translated in their service and belief in AtithiDevoBhava.

Posted on March 9, 2016 March 3, 2016

KedarNath Halwai

BEDMI PURI

The smell of a unique kind of spicy gravy coupled with the sizzling sound of hot ghee in the kadhai holds a special allure for the morning walkers of the old Delhi area. Desirous of satiating the hunger of their stomachs after the tiring walk, with traditional breakfast dishes offered by one of the oldest eateries in the area, the walkers rest their exhausted bodies on the lone wooden bench that lies outside the shop. The puri is made of a special dough which is constituted by a combination of udad daal and coarse wheat flour. It is double fried in a huge kadhai in pure ghee, till it turns a delicious shade of golden-brown. The puris are crisp because of the coarse wheat flour in the dough and the double-frying. They are served with piping hot bedmi which is a traditional gravy with potato pieces in it. The gravy is cooked with the boiled potato pieces till it enshrouds them with a balanced mix of spices which may lean a bit towards too hot for those who are unused to the Indian taste-palette. A green chutney made of methi and pudina is also served along with the bedmi and puri. Its subtle flavour perfectly complements the crisp and coarse texture of the puri and the strong taste of the bedmi.

The dish has pleased the taste buds of the residents of Old Delhi for many decades. It forms a regular part of the Sunday breakfast for a large number of families in the area. It is regarded as one of the consistently well-liked traditional dishes for those who have managed to keep away from salads and fruits as breakfast options on weekends. They instead, treat themselves to extraordinarily fulfilling breakfasts from some of the oldest kitchens in Chandi Chowk that have somehow survived the surge of modern chains of eateries.

The Kedar Nath Premchand Halwai in 13 Kinari Bazaar, Parathe Wali Gali, boasts of serving the best bedmi-puri in Chandni Chowk. It was established in 1958 by Sri Kedar Nath who had migrated from Haryana. It is currently managed by his son, Vinod Kumar. The owners claim to use nothing but pure ghee for the preparation of their foodstuffs and the shop is renowned for its breakfast food and snacks like nagori-halwa, trikoni mathri, sev-boondi and khoi peda. The shop remains open from 8 a.m. to 9p.m. on all days.

Posted on March 8, 2016

MasterChef Canada

MASTERCHEF CANADA PREMIERES TONIGHT ON TLC

Excitement, joy, passion and victory all packed in the biggest culinary battle – MASTERCHEF CANADA will air every Friday – Sunday at 8 PM on TLC, the home of travel, food and lifestyle.

The battleground will shift from drawing rooms to the kitchen on Indian television with the premiere of MasterChef on TLC.An intense battle will playout between home cooks, fighting to win the coveted title of MasterChef. Proving the adage that ‘No Dream Is Ever Too Big’, MasterChef Canada will celebrate the home cook’s ability to perform at the highest level. From backgrounds as varied as a chemical engineer to stay-at-home parent, the only thing that binds the contestants is their shared love for food and cooking.

The contest will test their skills, creativity and ability to perform under pressure in the kitchen as theybattle nerves, anxiety and tough challengesat every stageto dish out the best food and impress the judges and audience.

Testing and challenging the home cooks will be three of the most renowned chefs in the world – MICHAEL BONACINI,eclectic chef and co-founder of Canada’s leading fine dining restaurant companies, ALVIN LEUNG, self-proclaimed ‘Demon Chef’ who has been awarded three Michelin starsand CLAUDIO APRILE,a visionary chef known for his experimental cooking techniques. They will put the contestants through rigorous challenges that will test them to the limit until only the best remain.

The viewers canbe part of the excitement and win an exclusive MasterChefMystery Box by participating in a contest on www.tlcindia.co.in.

Watch the exciting battle between home cooks on MasterChef Canada, only on TLC!

Posted on March 7, 2016 March 3, 2016

Aslam Chicken Corner

ASLAM CHICKEN CORNER

ADDRESS- 540, Bazaar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid

PHONE NUMBER- 9312281022 ; 9811469795

TIMINGS- 5:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m.

Tracing its origins to the 1950’s in the kitchens of the famous Moti Mahal restaurant of New Delhi, the Butter chicken has charmed the taste buds of food lovers all over the world. Many creative adaptations of the original recipe have emerged with varying combinations of spices and cooking styles being put to work in accordance with the tastes and preferences of the diners. Aslam chicken corner lays its claim on a unique interpretation of the butter chicken which has stunned the chicken lovers of the Walled City for the past 18 years.

In the midst of the chaos that is characteristic of the Old Delhi area, the street lying right across the main gates of the Jama Masjid houses the four-storeyed building of the Aslam chicken corner. The entrance is deceptively small and is made tempting by the alluring display of chicken and fish being cooked slowly on a large chulha. The place does not have a large number of options for the visitor- just chicken and fish dishes with soda and cold drinks. However, the limited options owe mainly to the owner’s knowledge of what ‘Aslam’ does best.

The butter chicken offered by Aslam’s Chicken Corner is a unique combination of the tandoori chicken and the original butter chicken. The chicken pieces are first marinated in a special combination of spices which remains a well-kept secret of the owners and chefs of Aslam. One would receive nothing more than a proud grin in reply to an enquiry about the specific spices that go into making the lip-smacking dish. The crowning glory of the dish however is the butter gravy which is prepared by mixing a curd-like ingredient with butter. A separate chulha is used to heat large blocks of Amul butter which is then combined with the curd and poured generously over the scrumptious chicken pieces. The melted butter seeps into the chicken thereby softening it and the curd lends a tangy taste to the dish which perfectly complements the buttery effect of the gravy. The chicken is served in a steel container with a basket of rumali roti- a unique type of thin bread which is known for its softness. The sight of the chicken floating in a pool of butter is a torturous one for the health conscious gym-maniac. However, one is sorely tempted to give in to the overpowering instincts of the uninhibited food lover that lies buried within layers of control enforced by an increasingly weight-conscious society. The extra hours of workout is totally worth the pleasure of biting into the succulent chicken dripping with pure hot butter followed by greedy gulps of cola to wash down the heavy gravy.

Having succeeded in reserving a special niche in the hearts of chicken-lovers, despite the heavy competition meted out by older and more renowned chains like the Moti Mahal, Aslam’s chicken corner is most definitely an eatery which any non-vegetarian foodie must visit in order to get that one precious taste of this unique interpretation of a well-loved dish. During the visit, do try to take a look at the massive chulhas that are placed on the terrace with hundreds of chicken pieces lying ready to be cooked. If you have a penchant for cooking or are likely to fall into a trance at the sight of marinating chicken, you might as well get enchanted by the view in the open terrace whereby skilled chefs expertly handle the barbecue rods, sending magical drifts of a spicy scent into the busy breezes of Old Delhi. The chatter of the merry passersby and the hypnotic sound of the namaz being read out in the beautiful mosque often combine with this alluring smell to produce a charming atmosphere that dreams are made of.

Posted on March 7, 2016 March 3, 2016

Siyaram Chhole Kulche

Siyaram Chhole Kulche – Lajpat Nagar Market

Ayushi Mathur

The number of malls in the city is ever increasing and so is the mall culture with sophisticated outlets providing all sorts of fancy assistance. But ask anyone here and they would have shopped in the streets of Lajpat Nagar at least once. Lajpat Nagar Market is almost always included in our top suggestions for anyone visiting Delhi for the first time, and why not? It is one of the oldest markets in Delhi that offers a variety of products from clothes to kitchenware. So after shopping to their hearts content, what do the visitors seek? A plate of rewarding food to satisfy their hunger and this market has that covered too. Yes, Lajpat Nagar Market has some excellent choice of street food to gorge into. One of the numerous options of street food found in the market area is a group of Chhole Kulche vendors called Siyaram Chhole Kulche. Located in Lajpat Nagar II, near the main market area, these vendors sit next to the park and serve over 300 people in a single day.

Even though, this does not look like an establishment, Siyaram Chhole Kulche has been selling delicious food for over sixty years in the same area; which is a true testament to the quality and flavour of their food. Despite the fact that they only offer one item, they sell enough Chhole Kulche each day to support 4-5 families. Yes, you read it right, this joint alone provides for the families of all the owners.

At just Rs. 35, the Siyaram Chhole Kulche are an absolute delight to both the tongue and the tummy. The best part is that 4 Kulchas are served with a bowl full of delicious Chhole which are spicy as well as tangy. The Chhole are topped with a generous amount of onions, ginger and coriander and the Kulchas are soft and fresh. This proves to be a very gratifying meal after a day of tiresome shopping.

So the next time you are in Lajpat Nagar Market, don’t miss out on these incredibly yummy Chhole Kulche. And don’t worry you’ll find them there every day of the week from morning till late in the evening.

Cost for two – Rs. 70 Location – Lajpat Nagar Market, Lajpat Nagar II [The garden near Button gali]

Posted on March 6, 2016 March 6, 2016

Patiala Shahi Soups (Sethi Chicken Corner)

Location: 17, J-block DDA market

VikasPuri, New Delhi

by: AbhishekManchanda

(A.K.A. KhauGalikeBahubali)

Abhishek: “Aapkeyahan speciality kyahai?” (What’s the speciality at your eatery?)

MrSethi: “Sir, humare pas cheezeinghatthaan, par saari special haan.” (Sir, we have less items in our menu, but all of them are ‘special’.)

Meet the hardworking MrSethi, who usually stands at the cash counter but also marinates the chicken, slices onions and manages the workers. Mr Sethi told me told me that originally they used to sell only soups but now they have added more items to their menu. The journey started by the current owner’s father on a wheel-cart has now reached to a proper shop, where delivery and takeaway options are alsoavailable. But there isn’t a much place to sit. You’d find a few plastic chairs and tables but they are very less in number and stray dogs will roam around you if you eat there. People (usually males), in the evening, would often come here and eat. Also, they covertly drink there.

So, I tried their Chicken Soup, Kharoda Soup (Bone Broth), Tandoori Chicken and Keema Chicken. The onion salad that they give along with the food has a lot of cream in it, and like I’ve mentioned above, he called that cream-green mint chutney-onions as their speciality. I could believe that since many people were actually asking him to give onions with extra cream; his USP I’d say. SO coming onto the chicken soup – it was thick, and had too many flavours. I could feel the corn-starch used to prepare the base of the soup and along with it many spices were added. It had a tangy taste and shredded boiled egg whites, Paneer and shredded Chicken were added in it, while the bread croutons were added while serving the soup. It was spicy, and tasty. The Kharoda soup was hot, in terms of the spices added to it. Red chilli powder, Garam Masala powder and green chillies made it a tad too spicy for my palate but it was definitely worth having. The owner told me that they have been selling these soups for about 25 years. It’s only 6-7 years ago that they have shifted to a shop.

Tandoori chicken was roasted to perfection, neither too much nor too less. I asked him about the ingredients he used for preparing the marinade for chicken but he was apprehensive about telling it. From what I could tell from ‘reverse-induction’ method or by tasting, the chicken’s marinade definitely had yoghurt, hint of garlic-ginger, red chilli, Garam Masala, with black pepper on the higher side and food color. When the chicken was roasted, lemon was squeezed over it and was garnished by chopped Green Coriander leaves.

My experience says that mostly all such eateries/eating-joints manage to prepare such ‘dry’ items pretty well but the gravy items act as the differentiator. I finally got to taste the Keema Chicken. I had high hopes with this but to my surprise it looked a bit yellow (most probably because of the extra usage of Turmeric powder). The taste was not as good as I had expected. It had too much of tomato and ginger in its gravy’s base and less of onion and garlic. The spices were mild in this one. The gravy was thick and the chicken used to prepare this dish was semi-roasted. I had this dish with Rumali Rotis, which they brought from somewhere else.

My final verdict would be that this place is worth going but only to have soups and dry items (appetizers). For main course (gravy) items, this place doesn’t have much to offer in terms of quality and taste. It’d be best to take-away your food or to get it delivered at your place (only if you live in VikasPuri).

Cost for two (Approx.): Rs. 200-300 (for people with normal appetite), Rs. 400-500 (for people with larger appetite – like me 😛 )

Timings: 6pm to 12am (everyday)

Posted on March 6, 2016

Daulat ki Chaat

THE INEXPENSIVE WEALTHY CHAAT

By Prakriti Bhat

As Delhi’s winters give way to the scorching summer heat, we are all left to reminisce about the chilly months that went by. Dilli ki sardi is quite popular for its spine chilling (literally) dip in the temperature that forces you to snuggle inside a cosy blanket with a cup of tea or coffee. However, come winters and Delhites venture out of their homes to gorge on seasonal delicacies like Kadhai ka Doodh, piping hot Jalebis and Gajar Ka Halwa.

But what I, as a foodie, want Delhi to be famous for is Daulat Ki Chaat. A lesser known delicacy available only in winters, Daulat ki Chaat will make you fall in love with it instantly. Available exclusively in old Delhi, it is nothing like your regular chaat that tickles your palate with its spicy and tangy flavor. This one is sweet. Yes, Daulat ki Chaat is a dessert whose job is not to tease but to please! It is extremely light and can be eaten after a heavy meal. Unlike other Chaat items, this one soothes your senses.

Literally translating to ‘The wealthy chaat/snack’, Daulat ki Chaat is a product of hours of toil. The process is quite cumbersome as it takes several hours of manual labour. Milk and cream are churned together for 3-4 hours continuously. This causes a thick layer of foam to accumulate on the top which is carefully removed and collected in a separate dish. To a few parts, saffron is added which lends a yellow colour to it. This large dish (like a gigantic thali) is placed on a wooden stand as customers drop by to devour it.

In a plate this foam is taken, both the plain white and the saffron one, which are topped with Khoya and powdered sugar. After trying for 2 months, I finally got to taste this dish. All it took was a spoonful and I instantly knew that I had Nirvana on my plate! The texture is extremely soft. In fact, soft would be an understatement. The frothy texture melts in your mouth and the khoya and sugar make it a sweet and toothsome delight.

From November to mid March, Chandni Chowk hides several vendors of Daulat Ki Chaat in its sly and narrow alleyways. I tried it in two places in Chandni Chowk. One was in Katra Neel, outside Chanda Fashion. Anil Chand Kumar, the vendor prepares every plate with great care and expertise. Anil claims that 40 years ago his dadaji (grandfather) was the first one to bring Daulat Ki Chaat on the streets of Delhi-6. From November to March, he sells Daulat ki Chaat in Katra Neel and the rest of the year he works at his family’s shop- Baba Chaat Corner in Jogiwara, opposite to the Bhairon Temple. He served one plate for 50 rupees.

Another vendor, Hukum Singh stands bang opposite to Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala from 9 a.m. every day. Hukum Singh hails from Moradabad, U.P. and learnt the art of making Daulat ki Chaat from his mamaji (maternal uncle) who has been selling it in Kinari Bazaar since the last 25 years. He started selling Daulat ki Chaat about 9 years ago. With a happy and content smile he says, “The process of churning goes on till about 3-3:30 in the morning. After holi, it becomes too hot for Daulat Ki Chaat as the foam begins to disintegrate. So I go back to my hometown where farming keeps me busy till the next October-November.” Here, one plate was for around 35-40 bucks.

Chandni Chowk has many mouth-watering dishes to offer. But things like Daulat ki Chaat go unnoticed. I hope this dessert does not fade away into oblivion, swallowed by the stiff competition from popular restaurants.

Another article on Daulat Ki Chaat – http://www.delhifoodwalks.com/blog/daulat-ki-chaat/

Posted on March 5, 2016 March 31, 2016

Cool Point

COOL POINT

Address- 973, Bazar Matia Mahal, Matia Mahal Road, Jama Masjid, Matia Mahal, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi, Delhi 110006

Phone Number- 9953833786, 9350217460

Timings- 12:00a.m. – 11:59 pm

The scorching summer heat of the Indian Capital is renowned for its capacity to exhaust the most tenacious of tourists. Places like the Cool Point near Jama Masjid provide a most welcome relief from the energy-sapping climate. Sticking close to the obvious implication of its name, Cool Point is an eatery which boasts of a wide variety of sugary sweets, desserts and refreshing drinks which are sure to rejuvenate the exhausted tourist or citizen.

Established twenty five years ago by Muhammad Zahid, the place is currently managed by his son, Zohaib. It opens at noon and closes just before midnight, offering a world of sweet delight to all those with a perennial or occasional sweet tooth. Cool Point is mainly famous for its Shahi Tukda and Phirni.

Shahi Tukda is a traditional Indian dessert which traces its legacy to the Nawabs of Lucknow. It is made of bread which is deep-fried in pure ghee and then dipped in thick cream and sugary syrup. Layered with khoya, dry fruits and cherries, the dessert is sinfully delicious. The texture is a perfect combination of creamy and softly crunchy. The huge pan that one encounters right at the entrance of Cool Point, keeps warming the shahi tukda on a constantly low flame, luring in a large number of people with this bewitching display.

Phirni is another beloved dessert which is made of milk and crushed rice. Served in clay containers, phirni has a milder flavor as compared to shahi tukda, but is nonetheless mouth-watering. The condensed milk dissolves quickly in the mouth while the soft sweet grains of crushed rice linger on the tongue, ensuring that the flavour of the dish is sufficiently absorbed by the taste buds.

Apart from these items, Cool Point is also known for its kesar milk, badam milk, lassi and mango and vanilla ice cream. All the items are prepared daily with fresh ingredients by the chefs of Cool Point. The desserts and drinks offered by this treasure trove of a place give sweet relief to the tourists after they feast on the heavy and spicy cuisine that Old Delhi is famous for.

Posted on March 3, 2016 March 3, 2016

Gole Hatti

CHHOLE-KULCHE

Akshita Todi

IMG_20150527_110251 — Gole Hatti ke Chole Kulche

Despite the crude line of political tension that divides the nations of India and Pakistan, it is impossible to negate the centuries-old shared culture that constitutes the throbbing centre of the societies that thrive in both the nations. The chhole-kulche that is served in traditional North-Indian and Pakistani style allows the youth to get a taste of the times when the subcontinent was united. The chhole are cooked in a special mix of spices which are prepared by the chefs in their own kitchens by grinding the raw materials into fine powder. The smell of garlic and onions, while they are sautéed in huge frying pans in liberal quantities, is sure to tease the passerby’s nostrils and invite one to get just a taste of this North-Indian specialty. The chhole are served with slices of carrot and tamarind chutney which has a sweet and sour flavour. The gravy is cooked without any oil, rendering it healthy while being delicious at the same time. It has a subtle taste tinged with the smell of bay leaves, cloves, black pepper, cumin seeds and cinnamon. Unlike the popular renditions of this dish, the chhole are not very spicy and the gravy is delightfully light and flavoursome. The kulche that are served with the chhole are light, fluffy white breads made of flour dough with baking powder. They are baked in large quantities in traditional ovens which are unwieldy in their sizes. A food-lover can well imagine the delight of tearing into the soft pieces of the kulcha and dipping it into the scrumptious gravy of the tender chhole.

Along with chhole-kulche, other popular Lahori-Amritsari dishes include Chhole-palak-chawal, Palak-paneer-chawal and dahi-bhalla. The chawal is not just plain rice. It is an aromatic dish whereby the rice is drenched in pure ghee and then flavoured with bay leaves, cloves, pepper, cinnamon and dry fruits. It is tossed with vegetables like peas and carrots and also with fried cubes of cottage cheese. This pulao is then served with varying combinations of gravy and side-dishes to suit the preferences of the diners. The dahi bhalla is soft and has a perfect blend of tangy and sweet flavours.

That the partition of the nation could never bring about a divide in the lifestyle preferences of those living on either side of the border, is exemplified marvelously by the Lahori-Amritsari dishes that are lovingly prepared in food joints established by Pakistani immigrants in Old Delhi.

Gole Hatti, which was established in 1954 by Shri Nathuram Kamboj, is once such food joint. They pack their dishes in clay containers for home delivery as they believe that the plastic containers are unable to preserve the authentic taste and smell of the food. The shop sticks close to tradition, to the point that the managers continue to use the ancient model of the telephone with the ring-dialer. The menu is small and the chefs prepare the food in an open kitchen. The shop earns its name from the circular shape of its structure due to its location at the turn of the main road. It is currently managed by J.P. Kamboj and Karthik Kamboj.

Address- 2, 3, 4 Church Mission Road, Fatehpuri, Chandni Chowk, New Delhi- 110006

Phone number- 011 2252 0321

Timings- 11:00 a.m.- 8:00 p.m.