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Situated in the heart of Bihar’s Mithilanchal region, Darbhanga is one of the oldest and heritage rich cities of this north Indian state. Due to the presence of numerous architectural marvels and glorious heritage of arts and music, it is often referred to as the cultural capital of Bihar. This historical city whose prosperity was at the zenith during the rule of Raj Darbhanga, is also renowned for fishes, foxnut, paan and mangoes cultivation. We were there for a day to explore the most popular food. So let’s see what all we ate during this day long food tour.
We began from Manoj tea stall opposite Bandhan bank. The reticent Manoj Ji had placed a big pot of ghugni on a small table outside the stall. It was served along with either littis or bhunja. We went for the bhunja ghugni combo. It was crisp, spicy, tangy and flavourful. This was followed by a delightful cup of special tea from the same place, which had a little coffee added to it.
Piyaji Pakoda
Then we walked down the main road and reached Mirzapur to eat at Sardaar Pakodewala. Situated near Gurunanak Singh Sabha Gurdwara, this popular snack point actually doesn’t have a proper name. Here we met the affable and warm Gurmeet ji who spoke about their shop and their signature dish, the pyaji pakoda. It is a unique fritter made with one large onion that was first cut like a blooming lotus flower, then sprinkled with spices and double fried. They served it with chole and chutney. The sweetness and sharpness of the onion complemented the crisp, deep fried besan coating.
Lassi
After that unique pakoda, we reached this amusing place outside of which it was written Hum Lassi Yahin Peete hain. The huge sofas placed inside made it appear like a furniture shop but the lassi counter outside affirmed its actual identity. Those sofas were the part of the fancy seating arrangements inside the shop. So we grabbed a glass of hand churned lassi and went inside to enjoy it slowly. It was rich, creamy and luscious. The topping grainy khoya added to it’s opulence.
Fish Platter
Then we strolled down the adjacent vegetable market, the Kela mandi to reach Suraj Meat House This nondescript eatery is one of the city’s most popular non veg destinations. Darbhanga being a land of fishes, the menu here is dominated by fish dishes. Here we polished off some parboiled rice with rewa fry, sighi curry, jhinga masala and mutton curry. The food was mundane yet memorable. More than the affordable and delicious menu, it was Suraj Ji’s warm and hospitable persona that was a crowd puller.
As we headed further in search of more flavours, we spotted an old man selling Balushahi. This traditional sweet native to Runni Saiyadpur in Sitamarhi Bihar was a syrup laden, cooked ball of chena. Ram kishore Ji, the vendor procures it daily from the above mentioned place and sells it over here at Barabazar.
Chote Samose
We then took a paan break and moved on to try small samosas from the famous Jagdish Samosewale near Poonam Cinema Hall. But since the place was closed, we had it from Ravi Kumar Samose Wala. The bite sized samosa served with kadhi and onions made for a hearty snack. Ravi ji was such a humble soul who spoke about his journey in brief.
Sev Nimki
From there we reached station road to check out an old snack shop named Sri Chakradhari Bhojanalaya, whose dalmoth, sev and nimki were a favourite at Anubhav’ maternal grandparents house. But unfortunately we realized that its glory has drastically faded and now it is barely surviving with limited fares.
Chena Jalebi
With a deep sense of longing we took an auto ride to our last destination Sweet Home Sweet shop Laheriasarai. At this Bengali shop we tried orange, raskadam and chhena jalebi. We also visited their sweet making facility.
This was a gratifying tour where not only did we stuff ourselves with tasty food but also garnered some lovely inspirations from the vendors.
Ghaziabad is a populous city in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Situated at a distance of nearly 42 km away from Delhi, it is an old industrial city that is now the part of the National Capital Region of Delhi. The insatiable hunger pangs inside drew us to its loud and busy precincts. We were pleasantly surprised by the eclectic gastronomic scenario in here. As you negotiate through the bustling thorough fares of the marketplace at old Ghaziabad, you discover that this busy trade center is a foodie’s haven too. The street food here is mix of traditional and contemporary favourites. Many of the traditional shops are as old as over sixty-five years or more and they gave us a semblance of Old Delhi. Inspite of the heavy influx of modern and international influences, majority of the population still loves to gorge on the zesty traditional street food fares like Chaats, Moonglet, Dahi bhalle etc. There are truly some good eateries whose foods and stories will make you fall in love with them. After visiting the city on three different occasions, we have come up with a basic list of the the go-to places that you can explore. The food scene is so diverse and widespread that we need multiple visits to actually come up with a comprehensive list of the same.
MOONGLET
1. MOONGLET WALA(GHANTA GHAR)
Moonglet is the most preferred street food of Ghaziabad. These toothsome, savoury, lentil based pancakes are a craze with the crowd here. It’s resemblance to an omelette has earned it the name Moonglet i.e. moong dal based omelette. It’s is must-try delicacy in this part of the city. Try it for the buttery mouthfeel leaves you happy.
2. DEEPAK KANJI VADA(AGRASEN BAZAAR)
Check out this neat cart selling Kanji Vadas for the past 35 years to the discerning masses. This light and healthy snacks comprises of lentil dumplings dunked in mustard flavoured fermented water. Try it for its refreshing, filling and healthy goodness. It is a traditional summertime snack from the states of UP and Rajasthan.
3. LOKNATH SWEETS(GALI LOKNATH, CHAUPLA MANDIR)
One of the oldest sweet shop in the locality this place is famous for its luscious Rabri and Rasmalai. Their sweets are so popular that they even to travel far off places. We had tried the above two desserts along with Chenar Kheer. The well-made classics won’t disappoint us at all. The sweets are fresh, pure and most importantly, optimally sweet. Another popular stuff is their Lassi which the visitors and the traders swear by to beat their exhaustion.
4. HATHRAS CHAAT BHANDAR
Here you will get to taste the Hathras famed Aloo Tikkiya. Hahthras is a town in western Uttar Pradesh that is known for its Rabri and these zesty sweet and savoury Tikkis and Chaats. This one is a simple snack of plain deep-fried Aloo patties that is served with chutneys and curd. It is not that outstanding but not disappointing as well.
EGG LOLO POPO
5. RAKESH EGG POINT
Rakesh egg point is a paradise for egg lovers. They serve a delightful and scrumptious range of egg preparation among which the bestsellers are the Egg Lolo Popo and Egg Curry. As evening sets in people throng this stall to relish the hot and fresh egg dishes that includes old classics and fusion or contemporary stuffs.
6. YADAV JI KE DAHI BHALLE
This mobile cart circling the bustling marketplace serves a luscious and yummy Dahi Bhalle to the Chaat lovers. The Dahi Bhallas or lentil-based fried dumplings are served with smooth and sweet beaten curd, crushed papdis, chutneys and roasted cumin powder. This chilled, lip-smacking dish is a thing of joy.
7. GOYAL PAAN SHOP(NAVYUG MARKET)
Paan enthusiasts can check this place for their craving.
TRADITIONAL PLATTER SAIYA POORI WALA
8. SAIYA JI POORI WALA(MALIWARA ROAD, NEHRU NAGAR)
Yearning for some traditional breakfast platter, then head to this joint for their breakfast platter consisting of fresh hot Pooris, sweet and sour pumpkin sabzi, spicy potato curry, coriander chutney and a savoury raita. Best part of this unpretentious meal is the leaf plate that enhances the eating experience. Finish it off with a Mohan Bhog, a sweet that resembles a milk cake in taste and texture.
9. LALMAN LASSI WALA(OPP. PURANA BUS ADDA)
A glass of their lusciously chilled lassi will dispel your fatigue and refresh you effectively. The unique thing behind its sweet, smooth and refreshing taste is the pleasant earthy overtone that came from the earthenware in which the curd is set and also the one in which it is served.
10. PANDIT HOTEL(NEHRU NAGAR)
It is a typical North Indian styled Dhaba whose menu was quite elaborate. We had settled for their Navratri thali that has been introduced during festivity. It included two buckwheat and water chestnut flour based Pooris, a thin potato curry, curd, kheer and potato wafers. Everything was quite satisfying but it was the Shama or Millet Kheer that stood out in the group. Due to its appropriate location, it is a popular stop for the heavy vehicles passing through the nearby highway.
11. LALAJI CHAAT CORNER( TURAB NAGAR)
Turab Nagar is a popular cloth market and when the hunger pangs strikes you in the midst of your pursuits then you can consider this joint that is swarmed with a eager crowd impatiently waiting for the zesty Aloo tikkis. the shoppers love it this ubiquitous and lip smacking snack.
12. MUSKAN BURGER(KAVI NAGAR)
When in Kavi Nagar, try the spicy Hot Dogs from this counter that is a huge hit with the young crowd. Over a few years, the hot dog has evolved into a go to snacks that has caught the fancy of the masses. The masala hot dog is a zesty filling of a well cooked vegetable mash. Its filling and irresistible.
13. PORWAL JI KA NANO SAMOSA(KAVI NAGAR)
This small yet busy cart with a super exciting name-Porwal Ji Ka Nano Samosa serves small sized samosas, a perfect accompaniment to any conversation. The word nano refers to the small sized samosas sold in here. These mildly spiced samosas are super fun to have. Do try them if you are looking for some easy thing to pop in.
14. PAHALWAN DHABA(CHOTTI BAJARIA)
This 65 plus years old Dhaba serves great North Indian food in the area. Their super popular dish is Dhaba Style Chicken curry. Its is rich, robust, greasy, spicy yet very delicious. The right quantity and taste makes it as a value for money dish.
15. PANDIT JI KA SP. MATRA CHAAT(LOHIA NAGAR)
This place is a household name in the locality. Panditji’s unique fruit and yellow peas chaat has made him a celebrity. It is a zesty mixture of fruits and boiled lentils like Moong and Matra or yellow peas that is flavoured with spice mix, chutneys and lime juice. True to its glory, the taste is refreshingly addictive; a riot inside the mouth. Don’t forget to try it if you like the components that builds it.
EGG ROLL
16. GANDHI OMELETTE WALA(NAVYUG MARKET).
People throng this joint for the comforting bread and egg dish named egg roll. Unlike the regular roll which we are familiar with, it is made from a frothy, beaten egg mixture. Its appeal lies in the soft, fluffy and buttery texture. The crowd loves it and so did we.
17. MOHAN’S ICE CREAM STALL(GHANTAGHAR)
They serve special mixed fruit ice cream garnished with cherry compote. This humble chilled treat has a very homely taste that will stay with you and consequently turn you into an admirer.
18. GOYAL PAAN CORNER
This place deserves a special mention not just for their Paan but also for refreshingly yummy range of homemade, seasonal fruit juices.
With this we come to the end of this list. There are so many more eateries to explore which we will eventually discover for you. Till then keep walking and keep exploring. And for more details check out the links below:
Be it a rainy day or just a craving for something “good”, aloo samosa with dhaniya and imli chutney is the go-to snack for almost every Indian. Just when you think everything that could have possibly been done to and modified about a samosa, has been done for, you couldn’t be more wrong. Samosa’s Authentic Indian Food, located in the bustling lanes of South Delhi, is here to revolutionise the basic aloo samosa.
Situated in the J block of the Amar Colony area of Lajpat Nagar 4, amidst the honking cars and the crowded lanes, Samosa’s Authentic Indian Food may seem like a regular shop on the outside, however, you’ll be assured of its uniqueness once you take a look at its menu. This samosa outlet has broken away from convention in just a period of 4-5 months. Samosa’s Authentic Indian Food offers upto 38 varieties of vegetarian and non-vegetarian samosas having fillings of paneer tikka, chicken keema, malai mushroom, creamy corn, and even a newly introduced samosa desert or ‘samoert’, stuffed with khoya and Dairy Milk Silk. One also has the option of two different types of samosa base, either aata or maida.
Rajiv, the owner of the outlet has collaborated with Swiggy and Ubereats to provide a swift and efficient home delivery experience to his customers and even has a website dedicated to the same. The different samosa stuffings are prepared every morning but no samosa is cooked beforehand. They are freshly prepared, using little marking of food colouring for differentiation, as per the orders received, in a small kitchen at the back of the shop. The samosas are served with the staple dhaniya and imli chutney. These golden brown crispy samosas start at rupees 10, going high up only till rupees 60. The outlet opens up at 11 in the morning but receives huge crowds only in the evening around 4-4:30.
This year, Samosa’s Authentic Indian Food is trying to expand its reach and “make samosa’s great again” by being a part of the NBT Flavour Fest- Street Fusion Food Court taking place at Baba Kharak Singh Marg on the 14th and 15th of October. The festival is curated by Delhi Food Walks and aims to bring to the forefront the talented minds behind the various fusion food items.
Location- J-9, Shop No 2, Amar Colony, Lajpat Nagar 4
Who can forget Akshay Kumar and Juhi Chawla in colour coordinated night suits, gyrating to:
“Jab tak rahega Samose me Aalu
Tera rahunga, O meri Shaalu”
Samosa, the crowning glory of street food has come a long way from the simple Aalu (potato) fillings. And Ram G Snacks Corner in Moti Nagar proves exactly this point. With over 9 types of Samosas on their menu, this place is surely a haven for Samosa lovers. From Pastas to Chowmein as fillings, each Samosa is unique and delicious. I wonder what Akshay Kumar has to say to this.
Ram G Corner is a tiny shop near Milan Cinema in Moti Nagar. They have been serving in this area for about 5 and a half years and changed shops twice since then. Their unique concept and consistency garnered a lot of attention and popularity. This led them to open another branch in Netaji Subhash Place which has been running successfully for a year or two. The nearest metro station would be Moti Nagar or Kirti Nagar on the blue line. From Milan cinema, it’s a 2 minute drive.
The shop, going by the menu, serves 9 types of Samosas. Aalu Samosa, Malai Paneer Samosa, Paneer and Pyaz Samosa, Chilli Paneer Samosa, Tandoori Paneer Samosa, Macaroni Samosa, Pizza Samosa, Veg Keema Samosa and Chowmein Samosa. I asked the vendor to pack all the available Samosas except Aalu. Pizza and Tandoori Paneer Samosas were unavailable at that time. So he added an Egg Bhurji Samosa to my order. My favourite was the Macaroni Samosa. The pasta was made in Indian style and was well spiced and tangy. The next best was Chowmein Samosa. A product of Indo Chinese fusion, this one had your regular street Chowmein stuffed inside the Samosa; spicy, savory and exceptionally well made.
Among the Paneer variants, Malai Paneer Samosa was a clear winner. The mixture was creamy and extremely delectable. Chilli Paneer Samosa wasn’t very spicy but more towards the tangy side of your palate. Paneer and Pyaaz Samosa was made with crumbled paneer spiced with turmeric that lent it a yellow color. Veg Keema Samosa was prepared with Soya granules cooked in, perhaps, Soy Sauce. Lastly, the Egg Bhurji Samosa consisted of a filling of Egg Bhurji and onions. However, it was very bland.
Except the Egg Bhurji one, each Samosa is gigantic and very crispy. I got the Samosas packed and even after 20 minutes, they remained crispy. That speaks volumes about its quality. The prices are very reasonable. There may be no seating arrangement or tables outside the shop but do not let that deter you from making a visit to this hidden gem.
Anubhav Sapra is an avid foodie! He is a Founder but proudly calls himself a Foodie-in-chief at Delhi Food Walks. He is also a street-food and Indian regional cuisine connoisseur and loves to write about street-food.
Long back I read an article titled ‘Samosa trail’by Chitra Balasubramaniam, where she tried to cover the journey of Samosa in Delhi and discussed its variants at great length. Starting from the legendary Embassy’s samosa to the Japani Samosa, she had covered it all! Here are a few of them:
Embassy Samosa: Weighing 300-350 grams, this samosa isfilled with cubed potatoes, paneer pieces, matar (peas) and loads of green chillies.
Where: Lutyen’s Connaught Place.
Farukhabadi Samose: It has mashed potatoes, to which salt and red chilli powder are added.
Where: Shanti Mohalla, near Gandhi Nagar market.
Allahabadi Samose: This variant of the samosa is filled with well-fried dal.
Where: Bengali Sweet House at Bengali Market
Japani Samosa: This snack has a total of 60 layers filled with aloo, matar and very little spice which seeps through the incredibly crisp layers. This is served with delicious, piping hot pindichane and an interesting pickle of lauki (bottle gourd) and mango.
Where: Manohar, Chandni Chowk
Recently, I was at Connaught Place, getting my breakfast packed from an eatery famous for Chole Kulche near Scindia House. While crossing the subway from the Hindustan Times office to the other side of Naurang House, I noticed a man sitting on the pavement near Parsvnath complex, swiftly wrapping mashed potatoes with a thin dough and frying it. The size of the samosa took me by surprise! It was so small that it has been rightly named Mini Samosa. The weight of one samosa would besomewhere between 10-15 grams. Inflation, a key poll issue in last general elections, seems to have no effect on the mini samosa. 6 samosas are served with green coriander chutney at a minimal price of Rs.10. It is a treat to your taste buds.
Sri Ram, the owner, and his son Rajesh, who hail from UP, have been selling this delightful, affordable snack to office goers sincethe past 12 years at the same pavement.
The next time you are in Connaught Place, near Barakhamba Road,find your way to the Mini Samosa wale and gobble up the mini treat! I’m just happy to have added another variant to Ms. Balasubramaniam’s list.
Anubhav Sapra is an avid foodie! He is a Founder but proudly calls himself a Foodie-in-chief at Delhi Food Walks. He is also a street-food and Indian regional cuisine connoisseur and loves to write about street-food.
