June 13, 2014

Iconic Affair – An Indian Wine night

By Aisha Bhattacharya

Who drinks Wine with Indian food? We drink Rum, Whiskey, Vodka and Beer on most occasions and far too much to ever really taste the food afterwards. Even then, in Delhi, most restaurant managers know that after a night of drinking, people want Dal Makhni, Butter Chicken and Naan. Which, I have discovered is the leading cause of confused multi-cuisine menus in many outlets across the Capital.

So naturally, I think like a Delhi person when invited to a wine pairing session unlike any other – Indian food and Indian Wine. My first thoughts were – why isn’t it a wine & cheese event if they want to increase the visibility of their wines? Why Indian food? Does it even go with wine? With a bundle of questions in my bag, I reached 27 Icon in Lodhi Colony Main Market at 7:40 pm on the 11th of June, to be greeted by the organisers and an otherwise empty restaurant. Yes, first to arrive, again. But, my time was well spent, speaking to the Trade Marketing Manager for Grover Zampa – Rohit Arora.  Rohit told me that the merger between Grover (Nandi Hills, Karnataka) and Zampa (Nasik, Maharashtra) – took place last year to bring together a wider selection for the customer under one umbrella Grover Zampa. Also, Michael Rolland one of the foremost wine consultants in the world has been consulting for Grover since 1995 and has contributed hugely to the modernization of the wine making facility, vineyard management using more efficient and natural methods as well as reducing yield to levels similar to the best estates in Bordeaux with focus on quality and concentration of grapes.

I was fortunate enough to get time to chat with the host Mr. Avininder Singh, better known as the Foodie Surdie. I have to say that his take on the entire event was rather refreshing. He said, “You don’t have to like a wine that has scored 94.6 in an international challenge. All that matters is if you like the wine. And if you like the pairings that we have come up with, great! If not, we’ll try and make it better.”

The event was essentially to showcase 4 Grover wines and their pairings with Indian food, albeit the traditional way – white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat. A concept many people have considered and shied away from. But the owner of 27 Icon – Mr Rabi Ghosh rose to the challenge and created wonderful dishes that not only paired well with the wines but stood out on their own as well. He also explained to us the history of The Lodhi Colony Market, taking us back in time to when it was built in 1942 as Barracks for the British where Officers stayed on the first floor and soldiers on the ground floor. It was later converted to cloth and ration shops. Over the last few years there are now approximately 750 outlets in Khanna Market, Merchand market and Lodhi Colony market combined. Mr. Rabi Ghosh has opened restaurants like Haveli and Handi at Taj and now 27 Icon to give some of the best Indian restaurants like Bukhara a run for their money.

The wines on offer for the evening were paired as given below (this is the order we ate and drank in):

1. Art Collection Sauvignon Blanc was served with Hazarvi Murg Malai Tikka (the quintessential chicken malai tikka) and Tandoori Paneer Masala Tikka (V). This combination was my favourite pairing of the evening – An acidic, fruity and delicate white wine that cut the creaminess of the chicken and went well with the spicy, soft paneer. Refreshing on the palette because the taste of the chicken and paneer were distinct, not melding into one another as tends to usually happen. Strangely, this is a wine I normally pass over and don’t drink. But, I’ve been convinced otherwise.

2. Art Collection Cabernet Shiraz was served with Galouti Kebab and Saleena Kebab (V). My least favourite pairing because the Galouti kebab wasn’t as spicy as I expected and the Saleena kebab was a little dry and heavy for me (Dahi ka kebab with a stuffing of mint, cashews and raisins). This pairing was done keeping in mind the dry nature of the two kebabs and the juicy, ripe flavour of the wine. A rather rich red with a fruity character that should have gone well with the barbeque flavour of the meat. But, that’s only my opinion.

3. Art Collection Viognier was served with Methi Murg , Subz Miloni (V) and Tandoori Paneer in Kasuri Methi Makhani Sauce (V) (aka Paneer makhani). This refreshing, rich and fruity white wine paired very well with the Methi Murg. The chicken was succulent and the gravy was finger-licking good. The wine was good enough to drink by itself.

4. La Réserve was served with Gosht Roganjosh and Dal Ifshan (aka Dal makhani). The roganjosh again, wasn’t spicy enough and for a roomful of Indians I don’t think the need to tone it down was really necessary. The Dal Makhani on the other hand was very good. The basic flavours of these two went well with the smooth, slightly spicy and robust full-bodied red wine that La Réserve is. Hand harvested and aged in Oak barrels for a minimum of 6 months, this wine has a powerful bouquet and lends itself well to red meats.

5. Dessert was Gulab Jamun that had White wine in the mix and syrup, served with Vanilla ice cream. The shape was not the conventional round but an elongated cylindrical shape. Soft and delicious.

The evening was organised and hosted by THNK MKT and their Director/Founder Kartikya Arora kept us well informed and entertained. He asked questions after each pairing and the prizes were bottles of wine, of course. Narinder Kaur and Faraz Ahmed, the Co-founders of THNK MKT were checking everything and making sure everyone had a good time with refills of wine and unending servings of food. Not once did I have to ask for even water.

The Business Head of Grover Zampa for North & East India – Malay Rout had to be coaxed to say a few words in the end and all he said was, “I like to let the wine speak for itself.” He truly believes in the world class quality of his wines and who can blame him? With almost all the wines under their banner getting awards and commendations at wine competitions, award functions and international challenges, he has every right to feel that way.

I managed to win myself a bottle of La Réserve that night. I don’t remember the question or the answer because I think I got it for sheer enthusiasm. Either which way, the belly of this beast was full and happy! At the end of the evening, I could safely say that Indian food does pair well with wine. A little thought should go into it and you can produce a fantastic meal experience like the one I had at 27 Icon. When it comes to wine, don’t be snooty. Just go with what you like and start traditional – white with white meat and red with red meat. Take it from there and you too could discover brilliant pairings of wine with Indian food.

June 11, 2014

By Aarohi Narain & Karan Subarna

Away from the constantly abuzz Cyber City corporate hub and milieu of malls that Gurgaon has come to be synonymous with off late, this weekend we ventured into the now neglected area of Old Gurgaon. Although you’re likely to get lost seeking the Outback Bar and Grill located in Sector 14, it’s worth putting your navigational skills to the test for. The ambiance is ideal for a relaxed lunch or dinner especially during the winter months, but can easily work for parties too, with its low plush seating, large television screen and well-stocked bar.

In terms of appetizers, the eatery offers grilled delicacies for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. The French Herbs ka Tikka was a little bit lacking in French flavor and made for an average dish. Nevertheless, The Pepper Fish Satay more than made up for it, having been grilled to falling-off-the-skewer tenderness. The Shikampuri Kebab, a stuffed minced mutton patty, was well seasoned and succulent, and the Sunehara Jhinga, consisting of deep fried prawns, was truly golden in both taste and texture. For the vegetarian foodie, the Malai Broccoli and Thai Mushroom Kive stole the show. The Malai Broccoli gives a full bodied twist to the plain-Jane healthy vegetable, while the mushrooms are simply delightful and make for a great snack. Paired with superb beverages like the lemon margarita, ginger cosmo, and the green apple and cinnamon sangria, all in all, we saw Outback’s strength in its starters.

As the meal progressed, we ordered portions of the Dal Quraishi, Imli ki Macchi, Subz Rampuri Biryani and Hyderabadi Gosht Biryani. The Imli ki Macchi delivered on the tamarind quotient, but could have done with perhaps a hint of lemon and coriander to add that extra zing. The Dal Quraishi aptly represents the simplicity yet innovation of an everyday pulse-based dish in Indian households. The usage of Hari Moong ki Dal lends an aspect of freshness to the average Indian menu. Meanwhile, the Hyderabadi biryani was delicious, with al dente rice and spice-infused chunks of mutton. Drawing on the substance of the Pulao and the essence of Biryani, the Subz Rampuri Biryani satisfies every vegetarian’s desire for a good Biryani.

Outback does not offer too much variety to satiate your sweet tooth. Even so, the two dishes we sampled were truly amazing and scored high on quality. The Gosht Halwa and Pan Kulfi, both presented subtle sweetness, with the latter being a balanced union of cooling flavors suited to a summer’s day. The Gosht Halwa was highly innovative and interesting in terms of the consistency and taste that mirrored the everyday Ras Malai.

On the whole, we left Outback with a full stomach and a keenness to return. In a desert of mediocre takeout options and limited joints to cater to experimental young palates, Outback is a real oasis.

 

June 10, 2014

Food for thought

By Abhijit Patnaik

Peeli Dal at Shakahari, Chawri Bazar: Making good peeli dal is an art, but these guys excel in it, though the one at Karim’s is also to die for.

Fish Fry at Ganesh, Karol Bagh ( Gurudwara Chowk): The queue of cars outside this beehive of activity is a testament to the drawing power of its menu’s main attraction.

Bedmi Aloo near Naugarha, Chandni Chowk: If waking up early in the morning and having your breakfast beside an open drain is your idea of fun, this is an experience you can’t miss.

Aloo Tikki at Natraj Cafe, Chandni Chowk: The tangy tikkis served in a pool of creamy dahi and a medley of chutneys are enough to make you ignore the elbow power of passers- by.

Papri Chaat outside UPSC Building , Shahjahan Road : You may have had chaat all over, but this one has something that makes even your crashing dream of entering babudom seem fine.

Kakori Kebabs at Aap Ki Khatir, Khan Market: The hole- in- the- wall restaurant has moved from Nizamuddin to Khan, but the quality of its kebabs hasn’t suffered.

Cream Chicken Kebabs at Salim’s, Khan Market: Even the Middle Lane dogs seem to love it – if they see you eating it, they’ll wait patiently around you for their turn to lick the plate.

Chicken Tikka Rolls at Khan Chacha, Khan Market: These rolls defined Khan Market for an entire generation of bunkers from Modern School – now the whole of Delhi goes to have them.

Chicken Changezi at Chicken Planet, Tyre Market, Near Filmistan: Now, you can have this beauty in air- conditioned comfort, away from the confusion at the eatery’s aam admi side.

Poori Aloo of Ramchand, Chhota Bazar, Shahdara: The pooris don’t get soggy because they are made with sooji and the aloo ki sabzi is drenched in imli chutney.

Chhole Bhature at Odeon Sweets, Bhagat Singh Marg, Gole Market: Some people get very possessive about their favourite chhole bhature place. Our cholesterol- laden heart beats for this one.

Mutton Dish at Ashok Meat Dhaba, Shop No. 42, Subhash Chowk, Sadar Bazar: You won’t get lost trying to find this hole in the wall. Just follow the aroma of shudh desi ghee.

CP Chicken Pepper Steak at United Coffee House, E- Block, Inner Circle : A chunky piece of chicken breast bathed in a creamy mushroom sauce and accompanied by lots of veggies is our idea of bliss.

Dal Meat at Embassy, D- Block, Inner Circle : The hardy perennial has winner written all over it. The mutton pieces in it are like butter, as is the dal . You must also have the Pindi Chana and the scrumptious Embassy Pudding.

Tomato Fish at Kwality, Regal Building : Certain classics become a part of a city’s collective consciousness. This is one of them. The place also has the best caramel custard.

Double Egg Single Mutton Kathi at Nizam’s Kathi Kabab, Plaza Building : This is the best of their offerings, though you must also have their Pakhtooni Keema Kofta Curry.

SOUTHERN SIRENS

Set Dosa at Sagar, Defence Colony Market: You may keep complaining about the how Sagar has become a sprawling corporate enterprise, but certain favourites remain as good as they were.

Bombay Duck at Swagath, Defence Colony Market: This is the only place in the city where you can get real Bombay Duck prepared in the way it should be.

Rice with Gunpowder & Ghee, Andhra Bhawan: It’s a treat that even people on a no- carb diet must indulge in once in a while. Before leaving the place, make sure you buy a bottle of gunpowder and gonkura pickles from the little stall outside.

Bisi Bele Bhath, Karnataka Food Centre, Karnataka Sangha, Rao Tula Ram Marg: Once you have had this scrumptious, soul- nourishing vegetarian meal-in- a- dish, you’ll want to book a ticket to Udipi.

ALL- TIME STARS

Chicken Pakodas at Moti Mahal Delux, Greater Kailash- I, M- Block Market: The restaurant’s signature dish is butter chicken, but the chicken pakodas win the popularity race by a mile.

Butter Chicken at Havemore, Pandara Road Market: But don’t go for the boneless chicken; the meat can be fibrous. If you’re vegetarian, dig into the soya chaamp ki sabzi .

Kashmiri Kebabs at Gulati, Pandara Road Market: There’s nothing Kashmiri about the kebabs. These are chicken malai tikkas quilted in chickpea paste and egg yolk.

Dab Chingri at Fire, The Park, CP: If you wish to win a Bengali heart, go for this seductive prawn in coconut milk and mustard curry that comes in a green coconut shell.

Gushtaba at Chor Bizarre, Hotel Broadway, Asaf Ali Road : This is the closest you’d get to Kashmiri food as your mother- in- law would make it, though we personally prefer the rista made in the Pandit style.Veggies must have the Tamatar Chaman ( tomato paneer).

Chicken Haldighati at Colonel’s Kebabs, Defence Colony Market: Once you have eaten it, you’ll forget all the rarha chicken you’ve had in your life.

Nargisi Kofta at Karim’s, Jama Masjid: It’s difficult to figure out what’s the best at Karim’s, but this one scores because of the fineness of the preparation.

Veggie Cutlets at Coffee Home, Baba Kharak Singh Marg: These oil drenched temptresses may just go out of circulation if the High Court decides in favour of the Coffee Home’s closure.

Pakistani Biryani at DeeZ Biryani & Kababs: This biryani, we are told, is cooked in the Sindhi style. We suspect they use packed masala from Pakistan . Whatever it is, it tastes great.

Mutton Mince at St Stephen’s, Delhi University : Stephanians get misty-eyed at the thought of this essential part of their callow youth.

Kosha Mansho at Oh Calcutta, Nehru Place : Kolkata’s favourite mutton dish takes on the zest of Delhi to become something special. Have it with loochis , or pooris made with maida .

Mutton Barra at Bukhara , ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave: People love the ones at Moti Mahal or Karim’s, but our vote goes to Bukhara ‘s barras because they are uniformly well- marinated.

EXOTIC FLAVOURS

Pizzas at Flavors, Under Moolchand Flyover: Flavors manages to deliver impeccable pizzas from its wood- fired oven at any time of the day. Our favourite is the Vegetarian Piri Piri.

Khao Suey at The Kitchen, Khan Market: It’s impossible to get into the restaurant and the guy at the door is rude, but this Burmese delicacy is Delhi ‘s winter must- have.

Patrani Mekong Basa, Indian Accent ( The Manor, Friends Colony West): It feels like the fish has just popped out of the river – it melts in the mouth and the masala isn’t allowed to overpower it. Veggies must go for the paneerpinwheels.

Black Cod with Miso at 360 Degrees, The Oberoi: When the fish is silken and the sauce is made to be perfect, you won’t miss Nobu, where it was invented.

Stalin’s Beard at Nanking , Vasant Kunj ( opp. DPS Vasant Kunj): Potato has never tasted better. Even among their brilliantly innovative dim sum, this one stands out.

Peking Duck at China Kitchen, Hyatt Regency: This is justifiably the restaurant’s signature dish. The slivers of duck melt in the mouth, for the chefs prepare the bird by pumping air into it.

Hunanese Braised Prawns at The Chinese, Middle Circle , CP: There’s something about the sauce that stays in your edible memory.

Green Tea Noodles at The Monk, Galaxy Hotel, Sec. 15, Gurgaon: We thought it was impossible to get these noodles outside Sakura, but we were wrong.

Dim Sum at Tea House of the August Moon, Taj Palace : Best for Sunday afternoons. Ask for bok choy in garlic sauce for a change of taste.

SWEET SOMETHINGS

Kadha Prasad at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib: It may be blasphemous to go to the gurudwara on a Sunday morning with the thought of food, but the stomach has its own logic.

Badam Halwa at Saravana Bhawan, Janpath, CP: This temple of good vegetarian food serves the best badam halwa redolent of shudh desi ghee .

Kancha Golla at Annapurna Mishtanna Bhandar, Chandni Chowk: This is the finest address for Bengali sweets. We could list many must- haves, but this is the best.

Saffron Lassi at Kaleva, Bangla Sahib Road , Gole Market: You can’t spend a summer without it. Nor can you let the winter pass by without their imarti and ghevar .

Chocolate Pudding at Angels in My Kitchen, Defence Colony: This is the mouth- watering reason why Def Col residents swear by Angels.

Jalebis at Old & Famous Jalebiwala, Dariba, Chandni Chowk: The man playing video games on his laptop at the counter may not have manners, but people still queue up for the soft jalebis straight out of the vast kadhai .

Karachi Halwa at Chaina Ram, Next to Fatehpuri Masjid: This is the last place you’d find this disappearing delicacy, and the near- extinct Sohan Halwa. They deserve to live.

Hot Butter Scotch at Nirula’s: We are not being facetious, but this is one buttery treat that is worth every milligram of bad cholesterol.

Neembu Soda and Pan at Prince Pan, Greater Kailash- I, M- Block Market: We can’t think of a better way to end one’s meal, or one’s life

 

 

 

June 03, 2014

Amore di Pane

By Aisha Bhattacharya

 In the blistering Delhi heat, the only option people have is to stay indoors. For those who can’t, walking into a shopping mall is the next best thing. After hours of walking, taking elevators and escalators to find the next ‘in’ thing, the most natural urge is hunger. So, on one such horribly hot Delhi afternoon I strolled into Select City Walk to try the Amore di Pane Festival at Spaghetti Kitchen. Located between Gelato Romano and Harry’s on the second floor, Spaghetti Kitchen has a large seating area which isn’t exactly noticeable from the outside.

Once seated, the Senior Sous Chef – Chef Ashun greeted us and gave us a little background about the festival. According to him, “We wanted to do more with Italian cuisine and in the process broaden peoples’ palettes. To show them that there is more than just Pizza and Pasta we decided on this bread festival. Pane in Italian means bread and is an integral part of their cuisine. The idea here was to create something light and easy to eat in summer.”

This festival is on till 10^th June, 2014 across all Spaghetti Kitchen outlets in the Delhi/NCR region.

The festival offers a variety of delicious Panini’s and Wraps available with Veg and Non-Veg ingredients. We tried four items from the special menu – First up was the Fresh Mozzarella and Bocconcini Panini (Veg) – Plump tomatoes, bocconcini Mozzarella also known as buffalo mozzarella, fresh pesto on a lightly toasted and buttered Oregano Panini. WOW! That is really all I can say. The ingredients were fresh and the pesto was outstanding. I would have gladly eaten an entire bowl of it with a few slices of plain bread.

Next we tried the Muffaletta – A baked Panini with Chicken Sausages, Ham, Scarmoza cheese and an Olive-Jalapeno tapenade. The tapenade was a tad bit overpowering and made the meats taste bland. But, otherwise it looked good. It could have tasted better.

The smoked Chicken wrap that arrived soon after was everything you could want on a hot summer afternoon. Freshly sliced tomatoes, onions and grilled chicken tossed in Brie and honey mustard dressing, on a bed of lettuce and wrapped in a flour tortilla. As Donna Hay says, “Fast, Fresh, Simple” It is a little messy to eat because the ends aren’t closed but a delicious wrap which encapsulates the idea behind the food festival beautifully.

Last but definitely not the least their Ham & Cheese Panini. For most meat lovers (pork specifically) just the thought of Honey roasted Ham makes us salivate. Now pair that with Gouda cheese, plum preserve and Granny Smith Apples. It is a whole new sensation. The tart sweetness of the plum preserve with the crunchy fresh not-so-sweet apples paired with a strong flavour like Gouda and melt in the mouth Ham. Between two slices of perfectly buttery toasted bread, it’s like biting into a piece of heaven.

All this bread and no water, was luckily not the case. The Peach Iced tea made with Monins’ Syrup, a virgin Peach Margharita which was truly excellent and the King Alphonso – A summery mix of Mint and mango served chilled were the perfect accompaniments to this no-so-light meal we ate.

All the panini’s and wraps are served with a side of fries and some fresh salad. Ketchup, only on demand. A must visit for those who like sandwiches and are willing to try some new combinations and have a little time to kill while roaming in the malls.

Bon Appetit!