paan – Delhi Food Walks

Posted on November 2, 2020 November 3, 2020

MUZAFFARPUR VEG FOOD TOUR

In this special blog we bring you heartwarming accounts of a nostalgic gastronomic journey from the bustling lanes of Anubhav’s hometown Muzaffarpur in Bihar. Apart from being an important trade center of the state, Muzaffarpur is referred to as the ‘Land Of Shahi Litchi’ as it is the country’s leading producer of this deliciously succulent fruit. So brace yourself for an amazing lineup of street foods from some old and famous eateries that Anubhav had grown up eating. It was an utterly emotional experience for him to reconnect with his favourite vendors and dishes. So let’s get started.

We began with a simple and filling nashta platter from Makhan Shah Halwai at Sonarpatti. It consisted of hot, fluffy puris, a no onion garlic aloo ki sabzi, malpua and jalebis. The highlight of this platter was the freshly made malpuas. Made with a batter of maida and sugar these disc shaped sweets were pure bliss.

The next destination i.e Ram Bharan Aloo Kachalu Wale near Devi Mandir, was one of Anubhav’s childhood favourite stops that he frequented while returning from school. It was a ritual to relish the ghugni muri and aloo kachalu from this place along with the classmates. The former was a combination of puffed rice and black chick pea curry and the later was a zesty mix of boiled potatoes and spices. So during this visit, he went for these two dishes to refresh those memories. Everything, from the taste to the arrangement of things on the cart and the passionate warmth of Ram Bharan uncle was the same as it was years back. Anubhav was grateful to get this opportunity to express his thanks to him for the good times.

After that super nostalgic encounter we relished some sev buniya and lavang lata from Hotel Bahadur at Kalyani Chowk. The lavanga lata is a khoya stuffed, deep fried pastry whose loose ends are sealed with a clove. The sticky coating of sugar syrup on the crisp exterior adds more fun to the sweet’s taste profile.

The next dish that impressed us was a well assembled Dahi puri from Chintu Dahi puri wale at Kalyani Chowk flyover. For all chaat lovers like us, these curd filled crisp puris are a perennial source of joy.

We then came across a popular pav bhaji wale at Safi Saudi market. Along with the usual assortment of veggies, their version of this iconic street side dish from Mumbai had spinach and a distinct handmade spice mix in it that lent a unique flavour to the thick, buttery curry.

From there we headed to Hari Ji Kachori Ghugni Stall at Suttapati. It was a delightful place full of yummy fried snacks. Our pick was a plate of choti kachori that was a combination of sattu stuffed kachori and ghugni. It was so delicious, especially the flavour of besan fried in mustard oil was a treat for the taste buds. Hari Ji’s eclectic range of fritters attracts a huge crowd.

It was soon time for another round of sweet indulgence at two consecutive places Bharat Jalpan and Maharaj Dugdh Bhandar at Choti Sariyaganj Sutapatti. At the former place we tried rasmadhuri, balushahi and chena khajoor while at the later one we tried rasgulla, lal mohan and raskadam. In terms of great taste, the second place garners an extra admiration for serving optimally sweet treats in comparison to the first one. Anubhav has lots of yummy memories at Bharat Jalpan which he frequented with his parents during family shopping sprees.

It was soon time to punctuate the gluttony with a paan and some jamun flavoured drink both of which are known to speed up the digestive process and cleanse the palate. We need to make room for a few more popular delicacies.

The next destination was Sundar Maharaj Pede wala at Suttapatti.This Rajasthani sweet and snack shop is popular for its pedas and different varieties of namkeens like dalmoth, mixture etc. We tried some dalmoth and peda. The soft and rich pedas made from freshly made khoya bearing a sweet fragrance of cardamom were quite irresistible. Their Dalmoth i.e., spicy and tangy fried channa dal mixed was a decent snack.

This was followed by a playful helping of aloo tikki ghugni chaat from Ma Bhawani Chaat Bhandar. This mix of crisp aloo tikki, ghugni, chutneys and spices was fun.

Our penultimate destination was a Bindeswar Ji ki dukan at Purani Bazar Chowk. This humble pakoda and chup stall was situated close to the locality where Anubhav stayed with his family. It was an overwhelming experience for him to meet Bindeswar ji as it led to a flood of memories. He recounted some heartwarming recollections of the fried treats that he used to bing on from this place. A morsel of the crisp beguni stirred up more memories.

The final destination of this close to heart food tour was Sindhi Sweet Shop. Here we tried the topi khaja which is a delicious multi layered, firm and glazed sweet treat.

Thus comes to and end the walk down the memory lanes that is bustling with tales of tastes and flavours that had satiated Anubhav’s quest for food right from his childhood. Hope you enjoyed this recollection.

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Posted on October 14, 2020

DARBHAGA FOOD TOUR

Situated in the heart of Bihar’s Mithilanchal region, Darbhanga is one of the oldest and heritage rich cities of this north Indian state. Due to the presence of numerous architectural marvels and glorious heritage of arts and music, it is often referred to as the cultural capital of Bihar. This historical city whose prosperity was at the zenith during the rule of Raj Darbhanga, is also renowned for fishes, foxnut, paan and mangoes cultivation. We were there for a day to explore the most popular food. So let’s see what all we ate during this day long food tour.

We began from Manoj tea stall opposite Bandhan bank. The reticent Manoj Ji had placed a big pot of ghugni on a small table outside the stall. It was served along with either littis or bhunja. We went for the bhunja ghugni combo. It was crisp, spicy, tangy and flavourful. This was followed by a delightful cup of special tea from the same place, which had a little coffee added to it.

Then we walked down the main road and reached Mirzapur to eat at Sardaar Pakodewala. Situated near Gurunanak Singh Sabha Gurdwara, this popular snack point actually doesn’t have a proper name. Here we met the affable and warm Gurmeet ji who spoke about their shop and their signature dish, the pyaji pakoda. It is a unique fritter made with one large onion that was first cut like a blooming lotus flower, then sprinkled with spices and double fried. They served it with chole and chutney. The sweetness and sharpness of the onion complemented the crisp, deep fried besan coating.

After that unique pakoda, we reached this amusing place outside of which it was written Hum Lassi Yahin Peete hain. The huge sofas placed inside made it appear like a furniture shop but the lassi counter outside affirmed its actual identity. Those sofas were the part of the fancy seating arrangements inside the shop. So we grabbed a glass of hand churned lassi and went inside to enjoy it slowly. It was rich, creamy and luscious. The topping grainy khoya added to it’s opulence.

Then we strolled down the adjacent vegetable market, the Kela mandi to reach Suraj Meat House This nondescript eatery is one of the city’s most popular non veg destinations. Darbhanga being a land of fishes, the menu here is dominated by fish dishes. Here we polished off some parboiled rice with rewa fry, sighi curry, jhinga masala and mutton curry. The food was mundane yet memorable. More than the affordable and delicious menu, it was Suraj Ji’s warm and hospitable persona that was a crowd puller.

As we headed further in search of more flavours, we spotted an old man selling Balushahi. This traditional sweet native to Runni Saiyadpur in Sitamarhi Bihar was a syrup laden, cooked ball of chena. Ram kishore Ji, the vendor procures it daily from the above mentioned place and sells it over here at Barabazar.

We then took a paan break and moved on to try small samosas from the famous Jagdish Samosewale near Poonam Cinema Hall. But since the place was closed, we had it from Ravi Kumar Samose Wala. The bite sized samosa served with kadhi and onions made for a hearty snack. Ravi ji was such a humble soul who spoke about his journey in brief.

From there we reached station road to check out an old snack shop named Sri Chakradhari Bhojanalaya, whose dalmoth, sev and nimki were a favourite at Anubhav’ maternal grandparents house. But unfortunately we realized that its glory has drastically faded and now it is barely surviving with limited fares.

With a deep sense of longing we took an auto ride to our last destination Sweet Home Sweet shop Laheriasarai. At this Bengali shop we tried orange, raskadam and chhena jalebi. We also visited their sweet making facility.

This was a gratifying tour where not only did we stuff ourselves with tasty food but also garnered some lovely inspirations from the vendors.

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Posted on October 13, 2020 October 14, 2020

GAYA FOOD TOUR

The ancient holy city of Gaya in Bihar, referred to as the land of enlightenment and salvation, is a sacred place for Hindu, Buddhist and Jain devotees alike. Mostly frequented by a large number of tourists and pilgrims, Bihar’s second largest city, boasts of a vibrant street food scenario dominated by traditional fares that are loved by the locals too. So let’s take you on an immersive food tour of Gaya.

Before starting with our eating spree we first visited the Mahabodhi Temple at Bodh Gaya, one of the major Buddhist worship sites in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage site is the place where Lord Buddha had attained Enlightenment. The sprawling premises were full of monks and devotees from different parts of the world who have arrived here to seek divine blessings.

On emerging from the temple complex, we noticed a few food stalls and vendors, primarily selling Tibetan fares. Here we bought some fresh phaley bread from one of the numerous ladies selling it on the roadside, headed to Three Dolma Noodles Shop and ordered some hearty rice noodles. It was fun eating the noodles in the company of a group of monks visiting from Southern India. The phaley bread went well with tea and as well as the rice noodles soup broth.

Soon we then set out for Gaya and on reaching there we first offered our prayers at the famous Vishnupada temple and then began our food tour. The first stop was Rajasthani Bhojnalaya on South Church Road. As the name suggests their menu was a mix of popular Rajasthani and Bihari fares. Their no onion garlic Bihari thali containing rice, karela aloo fry, aloo rajma, dal, kadhi pakoda, spinach moong, dahi, matar paneer, makhuni etc. impressed us with its homely taste and affordability. Of these, the ghee smeared makhuni i.e sattu stuffed baked flatbread was brilliant.

The second destination was Kesari Chaat, a family run chat centre at Dr. Haridas Chatterjee Road, Durga Bari. Their spicy, tangy and flavourful palak paneer chaat is the talk of the town. It is a well balanced pot pourri of paneer pakoda, palak sooji pakoda, chole, curd and chutneys, sev etc. This was followed by an equally brilliant aloo malpua, a syrup lagen dessert made with potatoes.

While heading to the next stop, we stopped by an open tea stall at Tower Chowk and energized ourselves with a cup of spiced lemon tea.

Next was the turn of a humongous imarti from Sri Ganinnath Imarti Bhandar, KP Road, Chowk which is probably the best imarti shop in the city. The deliciously crisp, syrup laden ornate orangish loop is made with urad dal based batter. They make them of different weights. Ours one weighed half a kilo in weight which is equivalent to seventeen smaller imartis. The combined aroma of ghee, urad dal and sugar syrup was just divine.

We then took a paan break at Mathura Paan shop at KP Chowk Road. The classic Maghai Paan cleansed our palate and primed it for more food. Here we got a crash course on different varieties of suparis like the dry ones, soaked ones, nirmali, processed and roasted ones.

Finally was the turn of Gaya’s most renowned, winter special sweet called Tilkut which is made with just sugar and sesame seeds. The preparation entails a lot of muscle work and is quite elaborate. At Jauhar Ji’s shop Ramna road we got the opportunity to witness the complex and laborious process of making these Tilkuts. It is fascinating to see so many people engaged in this elaborate task. We loved the pleasantly sweet and nutty taste of this firm Tilkuts. They were so amazing that we even got some of them packed.

As the food tour kept extending with local inputs, we took another tea break at Mahasay tea stall at Tekari Road to energise ourselves for the upcoming stops. The amusing thing we noted here was the measuring cup that was used to measure out the tea. Locally called napna, it was essentially a bigger measuring cup that was dented from different sides in order to hold the stipulated amount of tea.

This was followed by a lip smacking serving of aloo kachalu from Bablu Ji aloo Kachalu wale. It was a spicy and tangy mix of boiled potatoes that has been mixed with some spices that served in a leaf plate. It is one of those quick and pocket friendly snacks that Anubhav grew up eating. Bablu Ji’s wisdom with spices and the other ingredients he deals with is so strong that when Anubhav found the thing spicy, he whipped up a solution with some spices and tamarind flavoured water and added it to the mixture and it’s spiciness vanished. While walking ahead we came across nimkis being fried fresh, hence we pop some to see how it tasted.

Our penultimate stop was Jai Shree Ram Tilkut Bhandaar, near Panch Mukhi Mahadev Mandir. We were there to try a very special Bihari sweet called Anarsa. These ghee fried rice flour based deep fried dough balls fresh out of the kadhai were so delicious. Their kala jamun and samosas caught our attention so we tried them as well. The former is a dark brown coloured deep fried sweet made of khoya whole the later one is the ubiquitous potato stuffed pastry.

The final destination of this immersive food tour, that spanned for the whole day was Srimani Prasad Chaat Wale in Dhamitola. Both the dish and the vendor selling it were quite fascinating. The robust aloo dum chaat was a potpourri of nearly 4 to 5 curries, chutneys and small snacks. Srimani ji was super amusing too.

We wrapped up this surfeit food tour that acquainted us with so many wonderful flavours contained in the lanes of Gaya.

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Posted on September 25, 2020

PATNA VEG FOOD TOUR

The historically rich land of Bihar has a diverse cuisine with a plethora of delicacies. The scrumptious and unique Bihari dishes are a treat for foodies hankering for local flavours. Fascinated by the enticing food stories from the state, we decided to explore its vibrant foodscape beyond the most celebrated litti chokha. So here we are all ready with an amusing food series that brings you the gastronomic details from different regions of the state. It is not just a journey of taste but an expedition to collate stories – stories that delights, stories that informs and stories that inspires.

Today we bring you an fascinating food exploration from the capital city of Bihar. It is a busy city with an amazing heritage and culture and also full of amusing people. So let’s see what the journey holds for us. We are so glad to have been joined by Mayank who is a young and passionate food blogger from the city.

We began our journey quite early in the morning from the vicinity near the Patna station as we wanted to start with some amazing local breakfast. Before heading to the most crowded eatery in the area we went to the very famous Mahavir Mandir to pay our reverence to Lord Hanuman. We partook some prasad and set out for Bhola ji’s nashte ki dukaan. It was an insanely crowded place stuffed with people jostling to catch a quick breakfast. The affordable breakfast thali available here consisted of fresh hot puris, jalebi, potato and chana sabzi, dahi vada and raita. Just for 30 rupees the quantity of food is so good that it keeps you going for a long time. The home styled food was quite good and filling. The place was thronged by office goers waiting to fill them up with some carbohydrate rich stuff before setting off for the daily grind.

From there we went to the iconic Puraani Litti Ki Dukan very close to the previous place for the taste of Bihar’s legendary litti and chokha. The place was abuzz with people busy eating the delicacy. We interacted with the genial owner who introduced us to the nuances of this dish. The freshly made litti and chokha tasted heavenly; especially the interplay of the flavours from mustard oil and ghee. Here we also tried crisp hot chandrakala which is a disc shaped traditional fried pastry filled with khoya and dry fruits.

Next was the turn of another famous street side snack called sev buniya and our destination was Bhanu sweets. Before trying a delicious plate of sev dahi buniya, we made a quick visit to the facility where it was being prepared. Among the three types of combination we went for the sev, buniya and dahi combo and it was super hearty. We finished it off with a cup of tea and some light hearted conversation.

The following destination was a fuchka stall. These crisp and hollow puris stuffed with potatoes and flavoured water are amazing flavour bombs. It is a much loved street food here in Patna and being fuchka lovers ourselves we couldn’t escape the urge of trying some. First we tried the aloo cut which was a zesty boiled potato and spice based mixture and then the ubiquitous fuchka.

From there we arrived at a humble cart that had some neatly arranged transparent boxes full of different healthy munchies and a hot wok placed over a potable coal fire. We were there to try a pocket friendly wholesome snack called Bhunja that is a popular snack for those who are inclined towards affordable nutritious stuffs. It is a mixture made with a preferred amount of grains, cereals and legumes. You can choose your preference and witness them being dry roasted right in front of your eyes, mix them with or without onions, chillies etc. Just pop it and keep munching till your heart content.

Next was the turn for some sweets and what could be better than spotting the famous Maner Ke Ladoos, a traditional sweet treat from the small town of Maner. These are a special variant of another popular North Indian sweet called motichoor ladoos that are adored for their deep fried super tiny chickpea flour based pearls. It was soft, luscious and they just vanished inside the mouth. It was followed by Bergami, another traditional sweet that is made up of paneer chunks that was firm and syrupy.

We wrapped up this simple food tour with a special paan that was intended to cleanse the palate and aid digestion. The street food here is a mix of fun treats and healthy filling stuffs. The Bihar food sojourn started on an exciting note.

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Posted on November 19, 2019 November 19, 2019

PLACES TO EAT IN OLD GHAZIABAD

Ghaziabad is a populous city in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Situated at a distance of nearly 42 km away from Delhi, it is an old industrial city that is now the part of the National Capital Region of Delhi. The insatiable hunger pangs inside drew us to its loud and busy precincts. We were pleasantly surprised by the eclectic gastronomic scenario in here. As you negotiate through the bustling thorough fares of the marketplace at old Ghaziabad, you discover that this busy trade center is a foodie’s haven too. The street food here is mix of traditional and contemporary favourites. Many of the traditional shops are as old as over sixty-five years or more and they gave us a semblance of Old Delhi. Inspite of the heavy influx of modern and international influences, majority of the population still loves to gorge on the zesty traditional street food fares like Chaats, Moonglet, Dahi bhalle etc. There are truly some good eateries whose foods and stories will make you fall in love with them. After visiting the city on three different occasions, we have come up with a basic list of the the go-to places that you can explore. The food scene is so diverse and widespread that we need multiple visits to actually come up with a comprehensive list of the same.

1. MOONGLET WALA(GHANTA GHAR)

Moonglet is the most preferred street food of Ghaziabad. These toothsome, savoury, lentil based pancakes are a craze with the crowd here. It’s resemblance to an omelette has earned it the name Moonglet i.e. moong dal based omelette. It’s is must-try delicacy in this part of the city. Try it for the buttery mouthfeel leaves you happy.

2. DEEPAK KANJI VADA(AGRASEN BAZAAR)

Check out this neat cart selling Kanji Vadas for the past 35 years to the discerning masses. This light and healthy snacks comprises of lentil dumplings dunked in mustard flavoured fermented water. Try it for its refreshing, filling and healthy goodness. It is a traditional summertime snack from the states of UP and Rajasthan.

3. LOKNATH SWEETS(GALI LOKNATH, CHAUPLA MANDIR)

One of the oldest sweet shop in the locality this place is famous for its luscious Rabri and Rasmalai. Their sweets are so popular that they even to travel far off places. We had tried the above two desserts along with Chenar Kheer. The well-made classics won’t disappoint us at all. The sweets are fresh, pure and most importantly, optimally sweet. Another popular stuff is their Lassi which the visitors and the traders swear by to beat their exhaustion.

4. HATHRAS CHAAT BHANDAR

Here you will get to taste the Hathras famed Aloo Tikkiya. Hahthras is a town in western Uttar Pradesh that is known for its Rabri and these zesty sweet and savoury Tikkis and Chaats. This one is a simple snack of plain deep-fried Aloo patties that is served with chutneys and curd. It is not that outstanding but not disappointing as well.

5. RAKESH EGG POINT

Rakesh egg point is a paradise for egg lovers. They serve a delightful and scrumptious range of egg preparation among which the bestsellers are the Egg Lolo Popo and Egg Curry. As evening sets in people throng this stall to relish the hot and fresh egg dishes that includes old classics and fusion or contemporary stuffs.

6. YADAV JI KE DAHI BHALLE

This mobile cart circling the bustling marketplace serves a luscious and yummy Dahi Bhalle to the Chaat lovers. The Dahi Bhallas or lentil-based fried dumplings are served with smooth and sweet beaten curd, crushed papdis, chutneys and roasted cumin powder. This chilled, lip-smacking dish is a thing of joy.

7. GOYAL PAAN SHOP(NAVYUG MARKET)

Paan enthusiasts can check this place for their craving.

8. SAIYA JI POORI WALA(MALIWARA ROAD, NEHRU NAGAR)

Yearning for some traditional breakfast platter, then head to this joint for their breakfast platter consisting of fresh hot Pooris, sweet and sour pumpkin sabzi, spicy potato curry, coriander chutney and a savoury raita. Best part of this unpretentious meal is the leaf plate that enhances the eating experience. Finish it off with a Mohan Bhog, a sweet that resembles a milk cake in taste and texture.

9. LALMAN LASSI WALA(OPP. PURANA BUS ADDA)

A glass of their lusciously chilled lassi will dispel your fatigue and refresh you effectively. The unique thing behind its sweet, smooth and refreshing taste is the pleasant earthy overtone that came from the earthenware in which the curd is set and also the one in which it is served.

10. PANDIT HOTEL(NEHRU NAGAR)

It is a typical North Indian styled Dhaba whose menu was quite elaborate. We had settled for their Navratri thali that has been introduced during festivity. It included two buckwheat and water chestnut flour based Pooris, a thin potato curry, curd, kheer and potato wafers. Everything was quite satisfying but it was the Shama or Millet Kheer that stood out in the group. Due to its appropriate location, it is a popular stop for the heavy vehicles passing through the nearby highway.

11. LALAJI CHAAT CORNER( TURAB NAGAR)

Turab Nagar is a popular cloth market and when the hunger pangs strikes you in the midst of your pursuits then you can consider this joint that is swarmed with a eager crowd impatiently waiting for the zesty Aloo tikkis. the shoppers love it this ubiquitous and lip smacking snack.

12. MUSKAN BURGER(KAVI NAGAR)

When in Kavi Nagar, try the spicy Hot Dogs from this counter that is a huge hit with the young crowd. Over a few years, the hot dog has evolved into a go to snacks that has caught the fancy of the masses. The masala hot dog is a zesty filling of a well cooked vegetable mash. Its filling and irresistible.

13. PORWAL JI KA NANO SAMOSA(KAVI NAGAR)

This small yet busy cart with a super exciting name-Porwal Ji Ka Nano Samosa serves small sized samosas, a perfect accompaniment to any conversation. The word nano refers to the small sized samosas sold in here. These mildly spiced samosas are super fun to have. Do try them if you are looking for some easy thing to pop in.

14. PAHALWAN DHABA(CHOTTI BAJARIA)

This 65 plus years old Dhaba serves great North Indian food in the area. Their super popular dish is Dhaba Style Chicken curry. Its is rich, robust, greasy, spicy yet very delicious. The right quantity and taste makes it as a value for money dish.

15. PANDIT JI KA SP. MATRA CHAAT(LOHIA NAGAR)

This place is a household name in the locality. Panditji’s unique fruit and yellow peas chaat has made him a celebrity. It is a zesty mixture of fruits and boiled lentils like Moong and Matra or yellow peas that is flavoured with spice mix, chutneys and lime juice. True to its glory, the taste is refreshingly addictive; a riot inside the mouth. Don’t forget to try it if you like the components that builds it.

16. GANDHI OMELETTE WALA(NAVYUG MARKET).

People throng this joint for the comforting bread and egg dish named egg roll. Unlike the regular roll which we are familiar with, it is made from a frothy, beaten egg mixture. Its appeal lies in the soft, fluffy and buttery texture. The crowd loves it and so did we.

17. MOHAN’S ICE CREAM STALL(GHANTAGHAR)

They serve special mixed fruit ice cream garnished with cherry compote. This humble chilled treat has a very homely taste that will stay with you and consequently turn you into an admirer.

18. GOYAL PAAN CORNER

This place deserves a special mention not just for their Paan but also for refreshingly yummy range of homemade, seasonal fruit juices.

With this we come to the end of this list. There are so many more eateries to explore which we will eventually discover for you. Till then keep walking and keep exploring. And for more details check out the links below:

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Posted on September 6, 2019 September 6, 2019

RATLAM FOOD TOUR

Historically known as Ratnapiri which translates to the City Of Gems’, Ratlam is a city situated in the northwestern part of the Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh. This commercial city is synonymous with three S i.e Sev, Sari and Sona(gold). Moreover, it is also a significant railway junction of the Indian Railway’s western division. The place also boasts of some amazing snacks and street foods which the locals love to binge on. So we have arrived at this small yet commercially significant city of Madhya Pradesh to explore its street food scene that is a matter of joy and pride for the locals. In this gastronomic journey we are joined our amazing hosts Ratlam Wale and Chirag Rai who would be taking us to the most frequented eateries. Due to its proximity with the neighbouring states of Rajasthan and Gujarat, Ratlam’s street food is deeply influenced by the culinary traditions of these regions.

We started our food exploration with Central India’s traditional breakfast dish Poha from a popular Poha joint Saklecha Nashta point. It was fluffy and light on spices. But the toppings of sev, fresh coriander, pomegranate seeds and chopped onions made it a tasty affair. The wholesomeness of this humble dish makes it a popular breakfast choice.

With the rains making a sudden appearance, we rushed to the nearby tea stall named Bajrangi Tea stall to satiate our tea cravings. Tea is the favourite beverage across Madhya Pradesh and the enthusiastic crowd at this stall and elsewhere too, was a tell tale sign of the fact that just like Bhopal and most other cities of central India, Ratlam too is a tea loving city. The tea here was indeed very energising and addictive but their saffron coffee was just decent enough. They stand out in their service as they use undiluted milk and good quality tea leaves for their brew.

Our next destination was Gordhanlal Sev Wala, a fifty year old establishment that specialises in the famous Ratlami sev. These gram flour based, tiny deep fried spicy snacks were truly appetising and fun. Here in Ratlam it is eaten anytime and with most of the dishes. According to the owner, the climate and the water of Ratlam gives the sev its distinct character. The use of the warming spices like cloves, black pepper, asafoetida etc., makes it a bit spicier for our palette.

Next was the turn of a wholesome Dal Bati and Bafla Thali from the popular Vyas Dal Bati. It comprised of crushed Bati and Bafla along with sweet and sour dal, papad and chutney. The platter was delicious and value for money. We spotted many daily workers having it for breakfast because this heavy protein and carbohydrate rich meal easily provides them with a continuous supply of energy for a long period.

After that we tasted the simple and light Sabudana khichdi from Sabudana Bhandar. Like the Poha this too is a go to breakfast dish across Central India. Its light, sweet and sour taste that was quite satisfying. In the morning time locals prefer these healthy snacks.

From there we reached Karu Mama Samosa shop. Their bestsellers includes the corn samosa, raw banana samosa and mirchi vadas. All of them were distinctly flavoursome. We were quite surprised with the taste of the raw banana samosas that we had for the first time. It had a sweet and sour taste. This snacks was created out of the necessity to cater to the Jain population who refrain from consuming the vegetables that grows under the soil. The place is a hot favorite so don’t miss it if you are visiting Ratlam.

While ambling down the street we came to a very interesting shop with the name Madhya Bharat Bar. On inquiring we realised that it used to be a thriving place long back and its origin dates back to post Independence era. The bar was no more functional. Here we tasted their fruit beer which okay but not much impressive.

Our next stop was Satish chaat wala whose chaats are a craze among the locals. Here we tried their three popular dishes- one was the aloo tikki chaat, the other was raw banana chaat and finally aloo tikki biscuit. Everything was delectable. No wonder people keep coming back to this place again again not only due to the lip smacking fares and also for the passionate young chap behind the counter who serves them with such joy and zeal. It’s another must try place in Ratlam.

From there we went to their relative’s pani puri shop for some delightful panipuris. The owner was such a generous host that he made us taste all the different flavours of pani puris available in his shop with such pride and honour. Though each of them were simply brilliant, but it were the Ratlami sev flavour, the mixed flavour and the Gatagat flavour that just blew our mind. Gatagat is a zesty, sweet and sour, playful tiny edible balls that we used to have during our childhood days. We also had the palak chaat here which was super crisp and moreish. We highly recommend this place to all the Pani puri lovers.

After binge eating those unforgettable pani puris we went to taste another famous hot beverage, the kesariya doodh that the city swears by. The thick and luscious milk is was quite pleasing. The locals love to have it after dinner.

We ended our food tour in Ratlam with a tasty paan from Govind paan shop. The day super gratifying and we could cover most of the popular eateries. We are extremely grateful to Chirag and Ratlam Wale for taking us around and helping us in our exploration. We truly appreciate their passion towards their hometown.

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Posted on August 26, 2019 August 26, 2019

VRINDAVAN FOOD TOUR

Located just 15 kilometres (9.3 miles) from Mathura, Vrindavan is a sacred town full of innumerable temples with intricate architecture and carvings. As per the Hindu mythology, this was where Lord Krishna spent his childhood years and also showcased his divine love for Radha. Numerous devotees from all across the country and beyond come here to seek divine blessings. Despite the hustle and bustle all around, you can’t escape the peace and sanctity of this heritage place.

Apart from the religious association, Vrindavan also boasts of a quintessential food culture, dominated by milk based delicacies, that has been moulded by the spiritual connection. The traditional fare on the streets and at household are mostly Sattvik food. The street food scene prevalent here is still shielded away from the impact of the growing fast food culture. In this blog we bring you a soulful street food escapades from Vrindavan that was mostly centered around the bustling lanes of Sri Banke Bihari Mandir.

Urad Dal Kachoris from Agarwal Mithai Wala

Just like the locals, we started our food trail with a traditional breakfast at Agarwal Mithai Bhandar. After having the Gujrati dhokla from the counter outside the shop we quickly moved inside to relish delightful spread of Urad Dal Kachoris, potato and pumpkin sabzis and fresh curd. This humble spread was all prepared in pure desi ghee and had no onion and garlic in it. There is something very enriching about such food that makes us feel more wholesome, calm and joyous. One interesting thing about this eatery is that, if you like the food then you can ring the bell placed outside the shop to announce it.

Khurchan Malai from Radhe Radhe Pede Wala

After the cheerful start our second stop was Radhe Radhe Pede Wala, a very old establishment in the city whose sweets are a craze with all sweet lovers. We couldn’t help prevent us from drooling over the eclectic spread of sweets over here. According to the owner who was a genial fellow, the shop still stocks some very traditional sweets that are very popular with the locals and visitors. One of them is the Peda. Though it appears to be a humble sweet but the process of making it is quite tedious. Milk is simmered for a long time till the moisture evaporates and the residue attains a dough like consistency. It is then mixed with sugar and cardamom powder and tiny balls are rolled out of it. These fellows have mastered the art. We also loved their Khurchan Malai which is a well cooked sweetened Malai or cream. Scooping it out of the tiny and adorable earthen pots was so much fun. We highly recommend this toothsome dessert. Their Moong Dal Burfi was soft, pleasant, greasy and delicious.

While visiting the city be very careful about the impish monkeys whose menace is simply unpredictable. They are notorious for snatching away your belongings. So be very careful about your wallets, spectacles, mobile phones etc. The astonishing thing is they mostly return your things in lieu of any food especially mango drink. But it does cause damage to your belongings and you as well.

After those irresistible sweets we arrived at Manish Cheela Shop for their Kanji Vadas and Cheela. We were tempted to try them both as they appeared super appetising. The former was a light and refreshing snacks comprising of small deep fried moong dal dumplings soaked in mustard powdered flavoured fermented water. A delicacy essentially from Rajasthan and Gujarat, the Kanji vada is preferred for its excellent digestive and detoxifying qualities. The latter one was a zesty Cheela or stuffed moong dal crepes. Cheela is a popular snack from UP and this one from Manish’s shop was filling and flavourful.

For lunch we went to Jaipuria Bhojanalay to try their unlimited Satvik thali that is very popular with the visitors. It was an eclectic spread of roti, rice, dal, bottle gourd curry, kadhi, chutney. Everything was prepared on the woodfire oven sans onion and garlic. It was light, wholesome and tasty. Even though it is an unlimited thali but there is one catch, that is you can’t share it with anyone else. Check out this place for a proper lunch or dinner option.

Like all other parts of UP, Vrindavan too is also famous for some amazing chats. And so we couldn’t resist ourselves from trying a serving of Aloo tikki chat. It was truly satisfying. The melange of flavours and textures made it endearing.

Next was the turn of paan from Ashoke Paan, a local favourite. Being a Paan aficionado we can easily vouch for the brilliance of the simple betel quid that Ashoke ji modestly handed to us.

With our palette cleansed and our appetite restored we stopped by a random cart selling something very interesting. It was the Rabri Chuski, an innovative take on Rabri. This would remind you of gola or crushed ice pops. Essentially it was a yummy rabri served on a bed of crushed ice.

While ambling down the street full of enthusiastic visitors, we spotted a young boy selling Golgappas with differently flavoured water. The flavoured water with different condiments like hing, harad etc was lip smacking. Do make an effort to trace him down and binge on his zesty golgappas.

Our final stop in this gratifying food exploration in the holy backdrop of Banke Bihari Mandir and its adjoining areas was Brij bihari lassi shop. The kesar gulab lassi was served in an earthen glass as delicious and refreshing as it could be.

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Posted on August 23, 2019

INDORE STREET FOOD TOUR PART II

In the final episode of the two part Indore Food Tour series, we bring you our memorable gastronomic explorations from Chappan Dukaan and Sarafa Bazaar in Indore, the commercial capital of central India and the city of foodies. Chappan Dukan is a lane that has 56 different eateries servion the other hand is Indore’s most prominent jewelry market that transforms into a vegetarian food haven after sundown. With the closing of the jewelry market at around 8 pm, rows of street food vendors springs up on the lane with their eclectic mix of scrumptious vegetarian snacks. This place is ideal for nocturnal culinary escapade as it remains busy till 2 am a night. Locals and visitors throng these two places to satiate their ravenous street food cravings. Here is a compilation of the most popular eateries that boasts of the substantial footfall due to their delectable and exciting fares.

Let’s start with eateries at Chappan Dukan street. Our first stop here was the Vijay Chat House. We tried two of their most popular snacks, the Batla Kachori and Khopra Patties. The former is a peas stuffed kachori while the latter one is a one of its kind snacks that is available only at Vijay Chaat House in the whole of Indore. The coconut stuffed round potato patties were crisp and moreish. The Batla kachoris was so well fried that each and every layer of these flattened dough balls were perfectly cooked. They served it as a Chaat which was filling and satisfying. Since the owners are from Gujarat, the shop also serves some of the popular Gujrati snacks like the Khaman dhokla etc.

The second stop here was Madhuram Sweets whose Shikanji is well known. This one is not at all, not even remotely, the Shikanji that we are familiar with i.e. the refreshing spiced lemonade. Here it refers to a luscious milk drink made with Rabri, buttermilk,dry fruits and spices. This signature drink was rich and smooth but a way too sweet.

Egg benjo from Johnny hot Dog, Chappan Dukan.

Our third halt was Johnny Hot Dog that has become a household name in the city. It is hugely popular with the locals, especially the young crowd who adore its delectably affordable snacks like Hotdogs, Egg Benjo etc. We had ordered their bestseller, the Egg benjo and Veg Hot dog. The former is a simple yet interesting dish comprising of buns stuffed with a fluffy omelette. The use of desi ghee in its preparation elevated its taste to a different dimension. The veg hot dog was a tasty vegetarian alternative to the Egg Benjo. Moreover the place was quite neat and hygienic. We recommend this place for its yummy snacks that are modest yet toothsome.

As evening ushered in, we arrived at Sarafa bazaar, Indore’s famed food hub. It is a jewelry market by the daytime that transforms into a food haven by late evening. Innumerable vendors throng the place with their attractive and eclectic spread. And the culinary fiesta goes on till 2 am in the morning. As you enter the street, the sight and the aroma captivates your senses and you are bound to forget everything but the food and the carnival around you.

Joshi Ji from the Iconic Joshi Dahi Vada House

We began our binge from the iconic Joshi ke Dahi Vade whose owner Joshi Ji was no less than a sorcerer whose magic wasn’t just limited to the food that he served but the amusing tricks that he performed with them and his endearing talks with the customers. He has mastered this incredible skill of flinging the Dahi Vada plates into the air and catching it back without spilling out a drop and also sprinkling five different spices separately in just a single pinch. Furthermore he is so eloquent and affectionate that his sweet talks just wins your heart. The Moong dal Dahi vada that are fondly known as Flying Dahi Vadas was quite satisfying, especially the curd which was super smooth and luscious. It is an indispensable food destination of Indore.

From there we went on to try the Indore famous Bhutte ki Kees and Garadu from the stall named A-1 Garadu. This place is hugely famous for these two playful treats. Butte ki khees is a savoury corn based delicacy that has a Halwa like texture. While the Garadu was a zesty, deep fried snacks made of Yam chunks. We tried them both for the first time and loved them. The fun part of the eating experience here was the light-hearted interaction with the owner of the stall Mr. B.C. Agarwal, who is a septuagenarian. His vigour at such age was both amazing and inspiring. In an amusing candour he told us about the his business, his success and his nocturnal lifestyle. Like Mr. Joshi, he too is a culinary celebrity of the Indore street food scene.

Our next food stop was Sawariya ke Khichdi food stall whose Sabudana kichdi is very famous among the locals. The mildly spiced Sago khichdi along with the toppings of spicy sev was quite appetising. They also sell the zesty savoury snacks like peanuts chat, banana chips, potato wafers etc.

Next was time for some sweets and so we visited the Jai Bhole Jalebi Bhandar to relish the humongous Jaleba which is nothing but an extra large, saffron flavoured Jalebi that was served with an equally decadent Rabri. We thoroughly loved the contrast of crisp hot jaleba with chilled Rabri.

After all those gluttony we checked on Jai Bhole Soda Shop gulp down a glassful of the digestive concoction so that we could make some room for few more delicacies. The fizzy lemon soda that we had ordered got extra frothy when the vendor dissolved some spice mix into the lemon soda. The whole act was fun but due to the effervescence, a lot of soda got spilled out. So when you go to try it make sure that you drink half the content of the glass so that most of the fizz stays in the empty portion.

From there we headed to Nima Kulfi, a highly recommended place at Sarafa bazar. Apart from the sensational falooda kulfi, the genial owner all decked up in gold ornaments was a sight to behold. We did confuse him for a jewelry trader but soon got to know that gold ornaments were his passion so he wears them. Like the owner, Nema Ji, the falooda kulfi was also an flamboyant delicacy.

Our penultimate halt was Naveen Coconut Crush stall where we tried the healthy drink coconut crush. The milky concoction had refreshingly pleasant taste that came from the blend of coconut water and tender coconut flesh. The vendor informed us that the coconut were sourced from Bangalore. It was a perfect health drink that restored the mineral balance in the body and energised us. We wrapped up the food trail with a brilliant Paan from Anna Pan Shop.

The gastronomic escapade at Indore was quite special for many reasons, the significant ones being the unusual yet delectable street food, the warm and jovial food vendors, the glorious success stories and the clean, hygienic and sustainable food practices in many of the eateries.

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Posted on August 12, 2019

JAFFRABAD STREET FOOD TOUR

It is the holy month of Ramzan and just like any Muslim neighbourhood, the narrow and busy lanes of the Jaffrabad Market in Seelampur, Delhi gets filled up with street vendors with their carts or stalls, selling Iftari food items and the common public, enthusiastically thronging the streets to break their Roza or the day long fast along with their acquaintances. So all these set up gets laid an hour or so before the Maghreb or the evening prayer. The prevalent sensory experiences in terms of the sights, sounds and aromas undergoes a visible shift as the place gears up for the Iftar or the feast that marks the breaking of the fast. As the evening moves into night, the sea of humanity swells and the surge of the locals engulfs the marketplace. One thing that revolves in the minds of all is food, the fuel that drives the human body. This place in northeast Delhi has a sizeable Muslim population. It is also the home to thousands of families that migrated to the capital from the nearby states of UP, Bihar and MP.

During Ramzan, the locality and its neighbourhood markets transforms into all night bazaar that is full of food stuffs and other things as well. Like its Old Delhi counterpart, this place is cheaper and full of local crowd as compared to the touristy crowd of the former. It is primarily because this place has no tourist attractions like the Jama Masjid, Red Fort etc.

A closer look to the human activity would reveal tired yet smiling visages of the locals who are out to bask in the collective glory of festivity and celebration especially through food. From evening time till dawn, food take predominance. Some of the common food sights are the fruits mostly dates, watermelon and bananas, pakodas, rose drink, a pleasing assortment of breads like sheermal or paratha, smoking hot kebabs grilled on skewers and huge cauldrons filled with either Nahari or Biryani.

We are at Jaffrabad to experience the food culture here during the festival of Ramzan; to discover and learn about the most popular and delicious local food, the distinct flavours triggers hysteria and the relentless hands behind the culinary celebration.

In solidarity to the spirit of celebration, unlike our other food journey we commenced this food tour with an Iftar, for which we joined our friends at a local shop. First task was to buy the food items for the Iftar. It is a customary gesture if you are going for an Iftar. Everybody pitches in with some of the basic eatables that makes up an abundant supply which is then shared by all, simultaneously.

We bought some Keema golis and mixed pakodas and went on to meet our friends for Iftari. The spread comprised of fruit chaat, medley of pakodas and rose flavoured drink. After this light initial spread came the main dishes comprising of Nahari and Khameeri roti. That the Nahari was brilliant can be assessed from the satisfying expressions of the fellow eaters.

With the Iftar done right, it was time to embark on the Ramzan food tour across the market. Our first stop was the Haji Ikbal Sheermal Wale. We were here for some fresh and hot Nan Khatais or Indian shortbread cookies. We were lucky to witness the making of a fresh batch of golden brown beauties. They were soft, crumbly and irresistible.

Next stop was a popular kebab shop thronged by the locals. Nawab bhai kebab wale is an interesting place that we recommend for the tastiest kebabs in the locality. We tried their famous sheekh kebabs right off the skewers and believe us they were amazing. Very interestingly the kitchen in this eatery sits above the shop and the hot kebabs are lowered to the ground floor shop area by a pulley set up. The owners too were extremely gentle and humble. This place won our heart.

Next stop was the Afaq Zaika Chicken. We tried their special butter chicken tikka. It comprised of perfectly grilled chicken pieces tossed in a creamy and buttery sauce made with curd, butter and minimal spices. With all its rich and robust components, this dish can’t go wrong. Its was delectable and addictive although the insane amount of butter can surely give you jitters. The dish was a representation of the iconic Aslam Butter chicken from Old Delhi. In due course of the conversation we came to know that they are kins.

While ambling down the lanes we came to a place frying Khajlas, a Ramzan time snacks that is eaten mostly during Shehri. Next we halted at a bread shop. Traditional breads are the inevitable part of the meal during Ramzan. They had an eclectic variety of breads of which we loved the Coconut one the most. After this was the turn of some mixed fruit shake from a street side cart. It was refreshing and had a custard like taste.

Then was the turn of a shop selling matar pulav, tehri and biryani. The taste of these vegetarian rice delicacies were so wonderful that we had to label it as a culinary discovery in the area. Imagine what a humble yet spectacular stuff it must be so as to win the heart of a hardcore biryani aficionado like me.

Right after it we also gorged on a delicious plate of Haleem biryani again from a street side stall that was swarmed with a super enthusiastic crowd. We literally jostled our way through them to collect our order. This place was a star.

From there we reached Islam Milk store, a place that everybody had recommended. With great curiosity we spoke to the owner and the customers to understand the amazing popularity of this milk joint. And with one sip of their rose flavoured milk we got all our answers. They have mastered the perfect ratio in which the three ingredients should be mixed so as to get the ambrosial byproduct. We left convinced that a glassful of milk can actually make adults smile.

Our penultimate stop was Cool point where we tasted one of the most decadent Shahi Tukda. The fact that they double fry the thing before serving makes it different from the ilk. Along with a scoop of their in house mango ice cream, this dessert attained great height in taste.

After so much gluttony that we didn’t at all regret, we ended the food tour with a paan. Jaffrabad emerged as a foodie haven with some gems that cant be missed.

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